We Should Go

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Cocina Consuelo - Google Maps
Cocina Consuelo - Google Maps

chris crowley rec Cocina Consuelo feels like a fonda, those homey Mexico City lunch counters, and it has a friendliness that can’t be manufactured. When chef-owner Karina Garcia arrived one morning last week, she cheerfully greeted her customers — “Hi!” “Good morning, what’s up?” — like they’d been coming since they were kids. The restaurant started as a pandemic pop-up, and it’s decorated as exuberantly as the apartment where Garcia and her husband Lalo Rodriguez first hosted those meals. During dinner, they serve mole negro and tortitas de calabaza; during the daytime hours it’s tortillas with a fried egg and salsa roja; sturdy little picaditas piled high with big crumbles of queso fresco, crema, and chorizo verde with enough cilantro to count as your daily greens; a masa pancake that’s thicker than an entire stack of diner flapjacks. Capped with fruit compote (recently blackberry, now apple), it’s served, like the version that went viral for Golden Diner, in a pool of amber honey butter. With a mug of café de olla, it’s good enough to make new memories. —Chris Crowley

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Cocina Consuelo - Google Maps
YongChuan - Google Maps
YongChuan - Google Maps
Ningbo, a port city south of Shanghai, is known for seafood, often steamed, with a particular penchant for yellow croaker and crab. Tony Li, the chef who owns this new spot, is from that city. Ningbo dishes by the executive chef Xing Zhong Qi and his chef de cuisine, De Qin Zhang, include pork patty, steamed wild yellow croaker and Ningbo 18 Cuts, a wild imported sea crab in 18 pieces to pre-order. These are juxtaposed with hot Sichuan fare like mapo tofu, spicy soft shell crab and spicy squid tentacles.
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YongChuan - Google Maps
Cafe Kestrel - Google Maps
Cafe Kestrel - Google Maps
Cafe Kestrel has the lived-in feel of a neighborhood institution; it’s been open a month. Maybe it’s the long experience in the trenches of chef-owner Dennis Spina (most recently of the Metrograph Commissary, though long-timers may remember his Greenpoint restaurant River Styx before that or his time at Williamsburg’s Roebling Tea Room), or maybe it’s the way that the tiny, globe-lit, white-tiled space put me in mind of another neighborhood favorite: the late, great Prune. The menu, too, gave me a little of Prune’s old magic with a handful of small dishes, uncomplicated but charming. A slab of pork loin with a peach mustard and a thin tian of summer squash. Marbella-ish chicken in a sticky-sweet date sauce, punched up by curry. A tiny little trio of scallops in a Sicilian-accented cauliflower agrodolce. And for dessert, a “Schwedeneisbecher sundae”: vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, and applesauce, apparently a favorite in East Germany. It sounds a little like baby food, but oh, baby. —Matthew Schneier
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Cafe Kestrel - Google Maps
Besa Grill - Google Maps
Besa Grill - Google Maps

Chris Crowley rec The first thing you notice when eating at Besa Grill is that it has some good meat. This is one benefit of grafting a restaurant onto a butcher shop next door. Besa is located on a Bronx block where locals linger on weekday afternoons over espresso and burek at the bakery, adding to the Old World feel. Inside, it’s brightly lit and sparsely decorated, with a few paintings and two miniature boxing gloves (one each for Albania and Kosovo) on the walls. Two employees run the show, and one frowned when sharing the news that there was no fli, the dairy-rich layered crêpe, that day. There are other reasons to smile. Like the mixed grill, which comes with four stubby links of qebaba, two plump patties of qofte, and a piece of fatty, salty suxhuk. The smell of smoke is one sign you’re in good hands. Another is the vibrantly red tomato — not the pale, watery pieces I’ve had at another Albanian grill nearby. All the sausages are very nicely grilled, lightly charred and still very juicy inside, and removed from the flames at just the right time. (Just ask for a side of red-pepper sauce.) Along with the tomato, the plate comes with a few pieces of bread, cucumber, and an excellent shredded cabbage salad (which is worth ordering separately) and lightly vinegared potato salad. —Chris Crowley

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Besa Grill - Google Maps