Fish Academia

The Red-tail Dwarf Puffer is a freshwater fish that is native to South America. This fish is also known as the Peruvian Puffer, the South American Puffer, and the Red-tail Puffer. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about Red-tail Dwarf Puffer care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The red-tail dwarf puffer (Carinotetraodon irrubesco) is a type of freshwater pufferfish that’s native to various parts of Southeast Asia. They are most commonly found in Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia but have also been spotted in Laos and Myanmar. These fish prefer slow-moving waters with a lot of vegetation. This could be anything from a swamp to a river with a lot of plants growing along the banks. The red-tail dwarf puffer is a very small fish, only getting to be about 1.5 inches (4 cm) in length. Despite their size, they are very feisty fish and are known to be quite aggressive toward both their own species and others. One of the most unique things about this fish is their red tail. As you might’ve guessed, this is where their name comes from. The rest of their body is a drab brown color, so the tail really stands out. Appearance The first thing you’ll notice about this little freshwater pufferfish is their unique coloration. As their name suggests, the vast majority of their body is a deep red. The only real exception to this is the white spots that run along their sides (more on that later). They have a very distinct body shape that’s a little hard to describe. They’re short and stocky with a wide head and a big mouth. Their dorsal fin is rather large and begins right behind their head. It extends back about two-thirds of the way down their body before tapering off. The anal fin is much smaller and is about halfway back on the body. Their caudal fin is forked and symmetrical. One of the most notable features of this fish is their teeth. They have four large teeth in the front of their mouth that they use for crushing shells. They also have smaller teeth lining their jaws. The teeth on the Red-tail Dwarf Puffer are quite sharp, so be careful when handling them. These fish also have a very interesting set of eyes. They’re very large and bulbous, and they sit on the top of the head (unlike most fish). This gives them excellent eyesight and they’re able to see in all directions quite easily. Lifespan The lifespan of a red-tail dwarf puffer is around 3 years, but with proper care, they can live up to 5 years. A lot of things affect the lifespan of a red-tail dwarf puffer. Some of these include the quality of the water they’re kept in, their diet, and whether or not they’re stressed. If you take good care of your red-tail dwarf puffer, you can expect them to live a long and happy life. Size 2-3 inches Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for one red-tail dwarf puffer is 5 gallons. If you’re looking for a freshwater fish that can fit in an average-sized tank, this is not the fish for you. If you want to keep two red-tail dwarf puffer fish in the same tank you’ll want to add at least another 5 gallons to that minimum number if you want them to thrive. Another reason why you need to provide enough space is for the sake of enrichment and comfort. These fish like to roam and will often run gentle but steady laps around your tank. Giving them a little bit of extra space can go a long way in making sure they can comfortably turn around in the tank. Water Parameters The most important thing to remember when keeping red-tail dwarf puffers is to maintain stable water parameters. These fish are very sensitive to any changes and can quickly become sick or die if the parameters fluctuate too much. To keep your red-tail dwarf puffer healthy, you should aim for the following water parameters: Water temperature: 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 7.0 to 8.0 Water hardness: 5 to 15 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4 to 8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the inside of an aquarium for Red-tail Dwarf puffers you can be as creative as you want. There aren’t any specific things that this species NEEDS to have, which gives you plenty of options. We recommend some of the standard decorations that you find in a lot of freshwater tanks. There are a ton of great plants you can include (like hornwort or water wisteria). You can even throw in some floating aquarium plants too! Rocks, driftwood, and caves are all suitable as well. It’s important to avoid going overboard with this since these fish like some room to swim. Also, if you’re keeping your Red-tail Dwarf puffers in a smaller tank then it’s going to be difficult to include a lot of this stuff anyway. A classic gravel substrate is always a good choice, but you can do with something soft and sandy if needed too (use other species you keep as a guide with this). Common Diseases As with any fish species, there are a number of diseases that can potentially affect your red-tail dwarf puffer. The most common one is ich, which manifests itself as small white spots on the body of your fish. This disease is caused by a parasite and is fairly easy to treat if caught early. Another disease to look out for is hole-in-the-head disease. This is a condition that is caused by poor water quality and the presence of activated carbon in the tank. It presents itself as one or two pits/holes in the skin of your puffer’s head. While it’s almost always curable, it will usually leave some scarring on your poor fish! As with ich, the best way to prevent these diseases is to maintain clean and stable water conditions in your tank. This will create a healthy environment for your fish and make them less likely to get sick. Behavior & Temperament The red-tail dwarf puffer is a unique fish that is both beautiful and interesting to watch. They’re not the most active fish in the world, but they make up for it with their personality. These fish are relatively peaceful and can get along with other tank mates as long as they are not too small. They are known to nip at the fins of fish that they see as a threat, so it’s best to avoid putting them in a tank with fish that are much smaller than them. Although they are peaceful, they are also very curious creatures. They are constantly exploring their surroundings and checking out anything new that goes into their tank. This includes their tank mates. So, if you have fish that are easily intimidated, they may not do well with a red-tail dwarf puffer. It’s also important to note that red-tail dwarf puffers are escape artists. They are known to jump out of tanks, so it’s important to have a tight-fitting lid on their tank. Tank Mates There are a few things to consider when choosing tank mates for a red-tail dwarf puffer. First, these fish are aggressive. They’re not known for being community fish and do best when kept alone or with other puffers. Secondly, they come from brackish waters. As a result, they need some salt in their water to stay healthy. This means that you have to be careful when choosing tank mates. The wrong fish will quickly succumb to the salt and die. That being said, there are a few species that can handle the salt and also hold their own against a puffer fish. Good red-tail dwarf puffer tank mates include: Fiddler Crab Bumblebee Goby Mudskipper Archerfish Knight Goby Shark Goby Breeding Breeding the red-tail dwarf puffer is not an easy task. In fact, it’s one of the hardest freshwater fish to successfully breed in captivity. The first step is to set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 10 gallons and have a sponge filter. The water should be well-oxygenated and have a pH of 7.0. You’ll also need to add a lot of hiding places. These fish need plenty of places to hide and feel safe. Driftwood, rocks, and plants all work well. When ready, add two males and two females to the tank. Be sure to carefully monitor the fish. These fish are known to be aggressive and may fight each other. The next step is to trigger spawning. The easiest way to do this is to lower the water level by about half. Then, raise the temperature to 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the fish have spawned, the female will lay her eggs on the plants. The male will then fertilize them. After about a week, the eggs will hatch. At this point, you can remove the adults and begin feeding the fry live foods. Conclusion As you can see, there are a few things you’ll need to be aware of before you get a red-tail dwarf puffer. But overall, they’re a great fish for people who want something a little different in their tank. They’re active and interesting to watch, and they’ll get along with other fish in your tank as long as they’re not too small. We think they’re a great addition to any freshwater tank, and we hope you’ll consider them the next time you’re looking for a new fish!

The Green Spotted Puffer is a freshwater fish that is native to Southeast Asia. They are a popular fish in the aquarium trade due to their unique appearance and personality. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about Green Spotted Puffer care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Green Spotted Puffers (Tetraodon nigroviridis) are native to a wide range of Southeast Asia, including Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand. They are most commonly found in brackish or saltwater mangrove forests and estuaries. These fish are known to be very hardy and can adapt to a wide range of water conditions. However, they will typically do best in slightly brackish water that is well-oxygenated and has a moderate current. Green Spotted Puffers are relatively small fish, only growing to be about 4-6 inches in length. However, they are very active and require a lot of space to swim. They also need plenty of hiding places and places to explore, so a well-decorated tank is a must. These fish are not recommended for beginners. They are known to be aggressive, and their diet of live food can be difficult to maintain. Appearance The Green Spotted Puffer is an easily recognizable fish thanks to their unique appearance. As the name suggests, these fish have green spots all over their bodies. The base color of the Green Spotted Puffer is usually some shade of brown or tan. The spots can be a variety of different shades of green (from light to dark). These fish have a very stocky body that’s wider than it is tall. They have a rounded belly and their backs taper off towards the tail. The fins on the Green Spotted Puffer are all rather small in comparison to the rest of their body. The dorsal fin is the largest of the bunch and it starts about two-thirds of the way back. The pectoral fins are small and round while the anal and ventral fins are even smaller. The caudal fin is forked and symmetrical. One of the most notable features of the Green Spotted Puffer is their teeth. These fish have sharp teeth that they use to eat hard shelled prey. Lifespan Green spotted puffers have a lifespan of 5-8 years in captivity, but they can live up to 10-15 years with proper care. The main factor that will impact their lifespan is the quality of the water they’re kept in. Green spotted puffers are very sensitive to poor water quality and it can shorten their lifespan significantly. Size Green Spotted Puffers can grow to be up to 6 inches in length, but the average size is usually between 4-5 inches. These fish are known for being one of the smaller pufferfish species. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for green spotted puffers is 30 gallons. If you want to keep more than one pufferfish in the same tank, you will need an additional 20 gallons for each fish. It’s important to note that these fish are not recommended for beginners. They are very sensitive to water quality and changes in their environment. They also have a reputation for being aggressive, so you will need to do your research before adding one to your tank. Water Parameters Green spotted puffers are one of the more delicate freshwater fish when it comes to water parameters. They come from slow-moving brackish waters in Southeast Asia. As a result, they’re not as tolerant of changes as some of their cousins. To replicate their natural habitat as closely as possible, you’ll need to maintain the following water parameters. Water temperature: 74 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 7.0 to 8.5 Water hardness: 8 to 12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 2 to 4 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Green Spotted puffers are a little different when it comes to tank mates. They can be kept with other fish, but there’s a greater chance of aggression. Because of this, we recommend that you set up their tank with just plants and decorations. This will give them plenty of places to hide and feel secure. When it comes to the plants, go with something that can withstand a little abuse. These fish like to nibble on vegetation, so something like Hornwort or Java Moss is a good choice. The substrate can be anything you want, but we recommend something on the softer side. These fish like to dig and root around, so a harder substrate can lead to cuts and scrapes. As for decorations, feel free to get creative. Driftwood, rocks, and caves are all great choices. Just make sure that anything you put in their tank can’t be swallowed or cause any injuries. Common Diseases Green Spotted Puffers are actually quite hardy fish. They’re not prone to getting sick and can even withstand less-than-ideal water conditions for short periods of time. However, that doesn’t mean that they don’t ever get sick. Just like any other fish, there are a few things that can go wrong. The most common disease that affects these fish is ich. This is a parasitic infection that will show itself as white spots on the body of your fish. If left untreated, ich can be fatal. However, it’s relatively easy to treat if you catch it early. Another thing to watch out for is any sort of injury. Green Spotted Puffers are notorious for being nippy, so it’s not uncommon for them to accidentally bite each other (or their owners!). If you notice any sort of injury, it’s important to clean it and keep an eye on it. Injuries can easily become infected, and that can lead to serious problems down the road. As long as you keep an eye on your fish and take good care of them, they shouldn’t have any problems. Green Spotted Puffers are actually quite hardy fish and can live for a long time if they’re well cared for. Behavior & Temperament The green spotted puffer is a very unique fish with a personality to match. It’s not uncommon for aquarists to become very attached to their puffers because they’re so interactive. These fish are very intelligent and are known to recognize their owners. They can also learn tricks, which is something you don’t see every day in the fish world. Puffers are also one of the only fish that can show true emotions. They can get happy, sad, excited, and even angry. When they’re angry, they might start to nip at other fish in the tank. This is why it’s important to only keep puffers with fish that can defend themselves. Green spotted puffers are also known to be escape artists. They’re very good at finding ways out of their tanks. So, if you have one of these fish, you need to make sure your tank is secure. Tank Mates Green spotted puffers (GSPs) are a bit more challenging to keep than other freshwater fish. They’re not impossible, but they do require a bit more care. One of the most important things to remember with these fish is that they’re predators. They’re not going to hesitate to snack on smaller tank mates. As a result, you need to be very careful when choosing green spotted puffer fish tank mates. The ideal tank mate is a fish that’s too large to be eaten and can handle similar water conditions. Some good choices include: Oscar Fish Green Terror Cichlid Convict Cichlid Jack Dempsey Firemouth Cichlid Clown Loach Breeding The biggest challenge of breeding green spotted puffers is getting them to spawn in the first place. These fish are notoriously difficult to breed, and most breeders have to resort to artificial methods. The best way to encourage spawning is to mimic the conditions of their natural habitat. Green spotted puffers are found in brackish waters in Southeast Asia. The water there is warm (around 82 degrees Fahrenheit) and has a high salinity level. To recreate these conditions, you’ll need to set up a brackish water tank. Start with a freshwater tank and slowly add salt until the salinity level reaches 1.010. Then, raise the temperature to 82 degrees. You’ll also need to add some live plants and plenty of hiding places. Green spotted puffers like to have a lot of places to hide. Driftwood, caves, and live plants all make good hiding spots. Once the tank is set up, add a pair of green spotted puffers. The best way to sex them is to look at their ventral fins. Males have longer and more pointed ventral fins than females. It’s best to keep only one male and one female together. If you have more than one male, they will fight for dominance. The next step is to wait and see if they spawn. Green spotted puffers are notoriously difficult to breed, so don’t get your hopes up. If they do spawn, you’ll see the female lay a bunch of eggs on a flat surface. The male will then fertilize them. After that, it’s best to remove the adults from the tank. They will eat the eggs if given the chance. The eggs will hatch in about four days. When they do, you can start feeding the fry live baby brine shrimp. Conclusion The Green Spotted Puffer is a great fish for anyone who wants a challenge. They’re not the easiest fish to take care of, but they’re definitely worth it. These fish are absolutely beautiful and full of personality. They’re also very intelligent, which means they can be trained to do tricks! If you’re up for the challenge, we say go for it. But if you’re not, that’s OK too. There are plenty of other great fish out there that will be a better fit for you.

The Spotted Scat is a peaceful and hardy fish that is perfect for the beginner aquarist. They are easy to care for and can tolerate a wide range of water conditions. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about Spotted Scat care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Spotted scats (Scientific name: Scatophagus argus) are a type of fish that is native to brackish and freshwaters in Southeast Asia. They are most commonly found in Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia. Spotted scats prefer to live in areas with plenty of vegetation, such as mangrove forests. However, they can also be found in open waters, such as estuaries and rivers. These fish are opportunistic feeders and will eat just about anything they can find, including other fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and even plants. Spotted scats are popular aquarium fish due to their unique appearance. They are silver in color with black spots all over their bodies. They are also known to be relatively hardy, which makes them a good choice for beginner aquarium enthusiasts. Appearance The Spotted Scat is a beautiful fish that is covered in black spots. These spots are relatively small and evenly distributed all over their body. The base color of the Spotted Scat is a light silver. This really makes the spots stand out and creates a stunning contrast. The fins on this fish are all clear and relatively unremarkable. The dorsal and anal fins are both short and begin about two-thirds of the way back on the body. Their caudal fin is forked and extends back quite a bit further than the other fins. The Spotted Scat has a long and thin body shape that is quite hydrodynamic. This helps them move quickly through the water in search of food. Lifespan Spotted scats typically live for around 5 years in captivity. However, their lifespan in the wild is unknown as they are not a commonly studied fish. The main factor that will impact their lifespan is the quality of their environment. If they are kept in poor water conditions then their lifespan will be significantly shorter. It’s also worth noting that these fish are known to be rather delicate when they are young. It’s not uncommon for them to die within the first year of life if they are not well cared for. Size Spotted scats can grow to be up to 18 inches long, but they are usually around 12 inches long. They can weigh up to 2 pounds. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for a spotted scat is 55 gallons. If you want to keep more than one fish, you should add at least another 40 gallons for each additional fish. As with most fish, the more space you can provide the better. These fish are relatively active and like to swim around a lot. They also produce a fair amount of waste, so having a larger tank will help to keep the water quality high. Water Parameters These fish come from brackish water habitats, so they will do best in an aquarium that has some salt content. The amount of salt you need to add to the water will depend on the specific gravity of your aquarium. A good rule of thumb is to add 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water. You can also use marine salt mix to achieve the desired salinity levels. It’s important to note that not all scats are the same. Some species are more tolerant of salt than others. If you’re not sure how much salt your fish can handle, it’s always best to err on the side of caution. Water temperature: 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 7.8 to 8.4 Water hardness: 12 to 30 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 2 to 12 dKH What To Put In Their Tank The first thing you need to do is choose a substrate. These fish love to dig, so something soft like sand is going to be best. The next thing you need to add are some plants. These fish are known to eat vegetation, so you’ll need to choose something that can handle a little bit of abuse (Hornwort, Water Wisteria, or Java Moss are all great choices). After that, you can add some rocks and driftwood to the tank. These fish love to hide, so giving them plenty of places to do so is a good idea. You can also add a few fish to the tank as well. Spotted scats are known to be aggressive, so you’ll want to choose fish that can hold their own (such as other scats, angels, or damselfish). Common Diseases The Spotted Scat is a pretty disease-resistant fish. They’re not immune to everything, but they can handle a lot more than most other freshwater species. The most common disease that these fish experience is ich. This is a parasite that will attach itself to your fish and cause white spots to form on their body. If you notice this happening, it’s important to act quickly. There are a lot of different ways to treat ich, but the sooner you start the treatment the better. Another disease that these fish are susceptible to is hole-in-the-head disease. This is another water quality related disease that will cause pits to form in the head of your fish. It’s important to keep an eye on the water quality in your tank so you can catch these diseases early. The sooner you start treatment, the better the chance is that your fish will recover. Behavior & Temperament Scats are not the most active fish in the world, but they are very curious. They are constantly exploring their environment and can often be seen swimming in and out of caves and other hiding places. While they are not shy, they can be a bit skittish and may startle easily. They are also known to be jumpers, so it’s important to have a lid on your tank! Scats are not aggressive fish and get along well with other peaceful species. They are not territorial and do not defend their space. In the wild, scats are found in groups. They are social creatures that enjoy the company of their own kind. In captivity, they should be kept in groups of at least five. Tank Mates Spotted scats are relatively peaceful fish that make good tank mates for other community fish. They do best in a tropical setup with warm water and plenty of hiding places. Because they’re bottom-dwellers, they’re not likely to compete for food with fish that occupy other parts of the water column. This gives you some freedom when choosing their tank mates. Some compatible fish for a spotted scat tank include: Neon Tetras Guppies Platies Mollies Swordtails Corydoras Catfish Plecostomus Breeding Spotted scats are another species of fish that are easy to breed in captivity. They typically lay their eggs during the rainy season in their natural habitat. To induce breeding, you can mimic those conditions in your aquarium. Raise the water temperature a few degrees and add more water to the tank. The extra water will help to trigger spawning. As always, make sure the water quality is high. These fish are very sensitive to changes in water quality. Once the fish start to spawn, you’ll see the female lay her eggs in a clump on the substrate. The male will then fertilize them. After that, he’ll stay close by to protect them. Eggs usually hatch within a week. When they do, you can start feeding the fry live foods. Baby brine shrimp and daphnia are both good options. As they grow, you can transition them to flake food. Conclusion The Spotted Scat is an excellent fish for the beginner or the more experienced fish keeper. They are very easy to take care of and are very adaptable to different water conditions. They are also a very peaceful fish and get along well with other fish in the community tank. The only thing to be aware of is their potential size, as they can grow to be quite large. Other than that, we think the Spotted Scat is an excellent choice for anyone looking for a new fish!

The banded archerfish is a freshwater fish that is native to Australia and Southeast Asia. They get their name from their unique ability to shoot down prey with a stream of water. This fish is a great addition to any freshwater tank. They are interesting to watch and are not very demanding in terms of care. In this guide, we will go over everything you need to know about banded archerfish care. We will cover topics such as diet, tank mates, and more. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Banded archerfish (Toxotes jaculatrix) are a type of freshwater fish that’s found throughout Southeast Asia in countries like Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, and Indonesia. They are most commonly found near rivers and streams where there is a lot of vegetation. This is because they primarily eat insects that live among the plants. Banded archerfish get their name from their unique hunting style. They are able to shoot a stream of water at insects that are up to 3 meters away! This is an amazing feat considering their size. These fish are very popular in the aquarium trade and are considered to be one of the best freshwater fish for beginners. This is because they are very hardy and can adapt to a wide range of water conditions. Appearance The Banded Archerfish is an unique-looking fish that is easily recognizable. They have a long, thin body that is silver in color with dark vertical bands running down their sides. The bands on their sides are black or dark brown and they’re relatively thick. They start right behind the gill covers and stop right before the caudal peduncle. The Banded Archerfish also has a long dorsal fin that starts just behind their head and runs almost the entire length of their body. This fin has 13-17 soft rays and is dark in color, usually matching the bands on their sides. Their caudal fin is forked and also dark in color. The Banded Archerfish has a small mouth that is filled with small, sharp teeth. They also have two long barbels on their lower jaw that they use to help them find food. The Banded Archerfish can grow to be about 12 inches (30 cm) in length. Lifespan The banded archerfish has a lifespan of around 4 to 6 years. This lifespan can be increased by providing them with optimal care. This includes a clean and well-maintained tank, a healthy diet, and tank mates that won’t stress them out. Size These fish can get pretty big, with some specimens reaching up to 2 feet in length! However, the average size for a Banded Archerfish is usually between 12 and 18 inches. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for banded archerfish is 75 gallons. These fish are active swimmers and jumpers, so you need to provide them with plenty of space. They’re also known to be aggressive towards other fish, so it’s best to keep them in a tank by themselves or with other fish that can hold their own. Water Parameters The banded archerfish is a tropical freshwater fish that is native to the brackish waters of Southeast Asia. In the wild, these fish are found in mangrove swamps, estuaries, and rivers. The banded archerfish is a very hardy fish that can adapt to a wide range of water parameters. However, for optimal health and to prevent stress, it is best to maintain the following water parameters: Water temperature: 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.8 to 7.6 Water hardness: 5 to 15 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Banded Archerfish are a freshwater species that come from Southeast Asia. They’re known for their unique ability to shoot water at prey above the surface of the water in order to knock it down. While they’re not the most common fish you’ll find in the home aquarium, they can make for a very fun and interesting addition to your setup. The first thing you need to take into account when setting up a tank for Banded Archerfish is that they need a lot of space. A single fish needs at least a 50-gallon tank, and we recommend going up to at least 75 gallons if you’re planning on keeping more than one. The next thing to consider is the fact that these fish like to have plenty of hiding spots. This can be in the form of plants, rocks, or driftwood. They also need some open space to swim, so don’t go overboard with the decorations. A good rule of thumb is to decorate the tank in a way that leaves about 60% of the surface area unobstructed. Finally, the substrate isn’t something you need to be too picky about. They’re not a fish that spends a lot of time rooting around, so anything from gravel to sand will work just fine. Common Diseases The banded archerfish is a hardy and disease-resistant fish. They’re not immune to disease, but they don’t seem to be as susceptible as some other freshwater species. The most common problems that these fish experience are parasites and infections. Ich is by far the most common, but there are a few other potential parasites that can affect your fish. The best way to keep your banded archerfish healthy is to maintain clean and stable water conditions in their tank. This will help to keep them disease-free and will also make them less susceptible to stress (which can also lead to illness). As always, be on the lookout for any abnormal behavior or changes in your fish. If you notice anything out of the ordinary, consult your vet and begin treatment immediately. Behavior & Temperament The Banded Archerfish is a peaceful community fish that does well in groups. They are not known to be fin nippers and can even be kept with long-finned species. They are, however, known to be jumpers, so a tight-fitting lid is a must. Banded Archerfish are shy fish when first introduced to an aquarium. They will often spend the majority of their time hiding until they feel comfortable in their new surroundings. Once they adjust, they will become more active and will even start to show their unique hunting behaviors. Banded Archerfish are surface hunters that use their keen eyesight and accuracy to shoot down prey with a stream of water. They have been known to shoot down insects as large as a dragonfly! Tank Mates The best tank mates for banded archerfish are other fish that occupy different parts of the water column. Banded archerfish are surface dwellers. They spend most of their time near the top of the tank where they can ambush their prey. As a result, you don’t want to add fish that share this trait. The good news is that there are plenty of fish that occupy different parts of the water column. This provides plenty of options when stocking your tank. Some good banded archerfish tank mates include: Clown Loach Kuhli Loach Black Skirt Tetra Honey Gourami Bloodfin Tetra Silver Dollar Fish Sparkling Gourami Green Terror Cichlid (as long as you have enough space) Pearl Gourami Congo Tetra Breeding Banded archerfish are not easy to breed in captivity. In the wild, they lay their eggs in the shoots of plants that grow in brackish water. In captivity, you will need to recreate this environment as best as you can. The first step is to set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 30 gallons and filled with brackish water. The water should have a salinity of around 1.5%. You can achieve this by adding marine salt to dechlorinated water. Then, add some plants to the tank. Your best bet is to use live plants that can tolerate brackish water. Java fern and mangrove roots are two good options. Once the plants are in place, add a few pieces of driftwood. These will provide hiding places for the fry once they hatch. When everything is set up, it’s time to add the fish. Start with two males and two females. The males will be the larger of the two. Banded archerfish are surface feeders, so they need plenty of food. Feed them live foods like insects and worms. You can also give them frozen foods. Spawning typically occurs during the wet season, which is from May to October in their natural habitat. You can trigger spawning by simulating the wet season. To do this, increase the temperature of the water to around 86 degrees Fahrenheit and add a lot of live plants. The female will lay her eggs on the underside of the leaves. The male will then fertilize them. Once the eggs are fertilized, the female will leave the area. The male will stay and guard the eggs until they hatch. The eggs will hatch in about a week. The fry will be very small, so you will need to feed them live foods like microworms and brine shrimp. You can also give them finely ground flake food. As they grow, you can gradually increase the size of the food you give them. Eventually, they will be able to eat the same foods as the adults. Conclusion The Banded Archerfish is a great choice for anyone looking for a unique and interesting fish. They’re not the easiest fish to care for, but they’re definitely not the hardest either. With a little bit of research and commitment, you can easily provide them with the care they need to thrive. We hope you’ve enjoyed learning about this fish as much as we have. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to reach out to us. We love talking with other fish enthusiasts and would be happy to help in any way we can!

The silver tigerfish is a predatory freshwater fish that is native to Africa. It is a popular choice for aquariums because of its unique appearance and relatively easy care. Despite its name, the silver tigerfish is not a member of the tigerfish family (Datnioidae). It is, however, closely related to another African freshwater fish, the tigerfish (Hydrocynus goliath). The silver tigerfish is a large fish, reaching lengths of up to 1.2m (4ft). It has a silver body with black stripes, which is where it gets its name. The silver tigerfish is a predatory fish, and its diet consists mainly of other fish. In the wild, it has been known to attack and eat mammals, birds, and reptiles. In the aquarium, the silver tigerfish should be kept with other large, predatory fish. It is not suitable for community tanks. The silver tigerfish is a hardy fish, and it is not difficult to care for. The main things to consider are its size (it needs a large tank), and its diet (it needs live food). If you are looking for a unique and interesting fish for your aquarium, the silver tigerfish is a good choice. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The silver tigerfish (scientific name: Datnioides pulcher) is a freshwater fish that’s native to Southeast Asia. They’re most commonly found in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. This fish prefers to live in slow-moving rivers and streams with a lot of vegetation. They’re also known to inhabit floodplains and rice paddies. The silver tigerfish is a predatory fish that feeds on smaller fish, crustaceans, and insects. This fish is popular in the aquarium trade because of its unique silver coloration and tiger-like stripes. Appearance The first thing you’ll notice about this freshwater fish is their coloration. The body of the fish is silver with black stripes running vertically down their sides. The fins on this fish are also silver with black stripes. The dorsal fin is tall and thin, and the caudal fin is forked. The pectoral fins are large and help the fish navigate in tight spaces and make quick turns. The eyes on this fish are large and silver, and they have a black stripe that runs through them. The mouth on this fish is large and open, and they have sharp teeth that they use to capture prey. The Silver Tigerfish is a beautiful and unique freshwater fish that is sure to add some excitement to your aquarium. Lifespan The silver tigerfish is a long-lived species with a lifespan of up to 20 years in captivity. Size The average size of a silver tigerfish is around 2 feet in length. However, some specimens have been known to grow up to 3 feet in length. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for silver tigerfish is at least 55 gallons. These fish are relatively large and need plenty of space to swim. They’re also quite active so a larger tank is necessary to provide them with the enrichment they need. A 55 gallon tank is the minimum but we recommend going even larger if you can. A 75 gallon tank would be ideal. Water Parameters Silver tigerfish are a freshwater species that is found in rivers and streams throughout Africa. In the wild, they are accustomed to warm water with a moderate current. To recreate these conditions in the home aquarium, it is best to maintain the following water parameters: Water temperature: 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.8 to 7.6 Water hardness: 4 to 18 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 6-12 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Silver tigerfish are a predatory species that come from Africa. In the wild, they’re found in rivers and streams with heavy vegetation. When it comes to setting up their tank, you’ll want to recreate this environment as best as you can. The first thing you’ll need is a decent amount of plants. These fish love to hide and will feel much more comfortable with some dense vegetation to do so. We recommend going with fast-growing plants that can handle a little abuse. Java fern, hornwort, and water wisteria are all great choices. You’ll also need to include some driftwood or rocks. These fish like to have a place to hide and feel safe. The more cover you can provide the better. Just be careful not to go overboard. Too much wood and rock can make it difficult for these fish to swim around and could lead to aggression. The substrate you choose is up to you, but we prefer something dark and soft. This will help these fish feel more comfortable and make it easier for them to root around (which they love to do). Common Diseases The silver tigerfish is a relatively hardy and disease-resistant fish. However, that doesn’t mean that they’re completely immune to sickness. There are a few diseases that these fish are susceptible to, the most common being ich. This is a parasitic infection that will present itself as white spots on the body of your fish. If you notice this, it’s important to take action immediately. There are a few different treatments for ich, but the sooner you start the treatment the better. Another disease that these fish can get is hole-in-the-head disease. This is most commonly seen in fish that are kept in tanks with poor water quality. It will present itself as, you guessed it, holes in the head of your fish. This disease is also treatable, but it’s important to act fast. The best way to prevent your silver tigerfish from getting sick is to simply maintain a healthy environment for them. A clean tank with stable water conditions is the best way to keep your fish happy and healthy. Behavior & Temperament The silver tigerfish is a peaceful fish that prefers to stay in hiding most of the time. They are nocturnal creatures, so they are most active at night. During the day, they will often find a cave or other hiding spot to rest in. When they are out and about, they will stick to the bottom of the tank where they feel most comfortable. These fish are not very social and prefer to be alone or in small groups. They are not aggressive, but they may nip at the fins of other fish if they feel threatened. Tank Mates When it comes to keeping a silver tigerfish, there are a few things to consider. First, these fish are predators. They’re not shy about going after smaller fish. Second, they’re fast. They can outswim most other fish, so don’t expect them to stay put in one spot. Third, they’re large. A full-grown silver tigerfish can reach up to 2 feet in length. Finally, they’re territorial. They need plenty of space to themselves and will defend their territory against other fish. With all of that in mind, here are some compatible tank mates for silver tigerfish: Pacu Arowana Oscar Green Terror Convict Cichlid Jack Dempsey Firemouth Cichlid Jaguar Cichlid Breeding Silver tigerfish are a bit more difficult to breed than some other species. They’re not impossible, but it does take a bit more effort. The first thing you need to do is set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 50 gallons and include plenty of hiding places. Driftwood, live plants, and caves are all good options. You might also want to add a bit of peat moss to the bottom of the tank. The next step is to adjust the water conditions. Silver tigerfish prefer slightly acidic water, so you’ll need to lower the pH of the tank. You can do this by adding a bit of peat moss to the filter. Once the tank is set up, it’s time to add the fish. You’ll need at least one male and two females. But, the more fish you have the better the chances of breeding. The next step is to wait. Silver tigerfish have been known to take up to two years to reach maturity. Once they’re ready to breed, you’ll know it. The males will start to build nests out of plants and debris. When the time is right, the female will lay her eggs in the nest. The male will then fertilize them. After that, he’ll stay and guard the eggs until they hatch. Once the eggs hatch, it’s important to remove the adults. They might eat the fry if you leave them in the tank. The fry will need to be fed live foods at first. You can graduate them to baby brine shrimp and other small foods as they grow. Conclusion The silver tigerfish is a freshwater fish that is native to Southeast Asia. It is a predator and can grow to be quite large, up to 3 feet in length. The silver tigerfish is a beautiful fish with a silver body and black stripes. It is a popular fish in the aquarium trade and can be found in pet stores. The silver tigerfish is a hardy fish and is not difficult to care for. It is important to provide a large tank with plenty of hiding places and a good filtration system. The silver tigerfish is a peaceful fish but may eat smaller fish. It is not recommended for a community tank. The silver tigerfish is a great fish for the beginner aquarist.

The Indonesian tigerfish is a freshwater fish that is native to Indonesia. It is a predatory fish that can grow to be quite large, making it an impressive addition to any aquarium. This fish is relatively easy to care for, but there are a few things to keep in mind when it comes to Indonesian tigerfish care. In this guide, we will go over everything you need to know in order to keep your Indonesian tigerfish healthy and happy. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The Indonesian tigerfish (Datnioides pulcher) is a freshwater fish that is native to Indonesia. It is also known as the false datnioid, the tiger datnoid, and the Sumatran tigerfish. This fish is found in slow-moving rivers and streams with a sandy bottom and plenty of vegetation. It is an ambush predator, meaning that it lies in wait for its prey before attacking. The Indonesian tigerfish is a popular aquarium fish due to its unique appearance. It is silver-gray in color with black stripes running down its body. It can grow to be about 12 inches long. This fish is not recommended for beginners, as it can be aggressive toward other fish and is difficult to care for. Appearance The Indonesian tigerfish is a freshwater fish that is native to Indonesia. As the name suggests, this fish has black stripes that run vertically down its body. These stripes are a bit wider at the fish’s head and taper down as they reach the tail. The background color of the fish can be anything from light brown to almost black. The fins on this fish are relatively small compared to the rest of its body. The dorsal fin is slightly taller than the anal fin and both of these fins have a black margin. The caudal fin is forked and symmetrical. The Indonesian tigerfish also has a pair of barbels near its mouth that it uses to help find food. This fish has a long and slender body that is built for speed. The Indonesian tigerfish is a predatory fish that preys on smaller fish and invertebrates. Lifespan In the wild, the Indonesian tigerfish lifespan is only about 3 years. This is due to the fact that they’re constantly under threat from predators. In captivity however, they can live up to 10 years with proper care. This is a huge difference and highlights the importance of providing them with a good home. Size The average fully-grown Indonesian tigerfish size is between 24 and 36 inches long. Some tigerfish have been known to grow even larger than this, but it is not common. Females are typically smaller than males and can reach a length of about 30 inches. Tank Tank Size The minimum tank size for an Indonesian tigerfish is 150 gallons. This fish is a predator and will need a lot of space to swim. They also grow to be quite large, so make sure you have a tank that can accommodate their full size. Water Parameters The Indonesian tigerfish is a freshwater fish that is native to the island of Sumatra. It is a tropical fish that prefers water temperatures between 77 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH level of the water should be between 6.5 and 7.5 and the water should be soft to medium in hardness. The most important thing to remember when it comes to the Indonesian tigerfish is that it is a predatory fish. This means that it will need a lot of space to swim and plenty of hiding places. It is also important to remember that this fish will eat smaller fish, so be sure to only keep it with fish that are too large to be eaten. Water Temperature: 77-82 degrees Fahrenheit pH Levels: 6.5-7.5 Water Hardness: Soft to medium Alkalinity Levels: n/a What To Put In Their Tank Indonesian tigerfish are one of the most aggressive freshwater fish you can keep. They’re also one of the most beautiful. These fish come from fast-moving rivers and streams so they’re used to a lot of water movement. Because of this, you’re going to need a pretty powerful filter. We recommend something along the lines of a canister filter with a flow rate of at least 400 GPH. This will help keep the water well-oxygenated and provide a good amount of water movement. As for the substrate, these fish don’t really care. You can use gravel, sand, or even bare-bottom if you want. When it comes to plants, you might be better off avoiding them. These fish are known to uproot and eat vegetation, so unless you’re okay with replacing plants on a regular basis we recommend avoiding them. Rocks, caves, and driftwood are all great choices for decorations. Just make sure they’re securely in place so they don’t get uprooted (and potentially hurt your fish). Common Diseases There are a few diseases that you need to watch out for if you’re keeping Indonesian tigerfish. The most common one is Whitespot Disease, which is caused by a parasite called ich. This will show itself as white spots on the body, fish, and gills of your fish. We won’t do a full ich treatment guide here (there are plenty of those online) but it’s something you need to take very seriously if it affects your Indonesian tigerfish. The other disease you need to be aware of is Hole-in-the-Head Disease. This is a rather gruesome looking illness that stems from poor water quality and the presence of activated carbon in your tank. This will present itself as one or two pits/holes in the skin of your fish’s head. While it’s almost always curable (fixing your water quality and removing activated carbon is usually all you need to do), it will usually leave some scarring on your poor fish! Behavior & Temperament The Indonesian tigerfish is a predatory fish that is known for being aggressive and territorial. In the wild, these fish live in rivers and lakes where they hunt for smaller fish to eat. In an aquarium setting, they can be just as aggressive. They are known to attack other fish, and they may even try to eat smaller fish than they can fit in their mouths. For this reason, it’s best to keep Indonesian tigerfish with other fish that are too large to be seen as prey. They are also known to be aggressive towards other tigerfish, so it’s best to keep them in pairs or groups. When it comes to their temperament, Indonesian tigerfish are not the easiest fish to get along with. They can be aggressive and territorial, and they need a lot of space to swim. Tank Mates The Indonesian tigerfish is a predatory fish that is not recommended for the home aquarium. These fish grow to be large, and they are known to be aggressive. They are also known to eat smaller fish, so it is important that you choose tank mates carefully. Some good choices for Indonesian tigerfish tank mates include: Catfish Plecos Tetras Barbs Danios Rainbows Gouramis Cherry Shrimp Breeding The Indonesian tigerfish is a beautiful and unique species that is native to the island of Java. While not the easiest fish to breed in captivity, it can be done with some patience and knowledge. The first step is to set up a breeding tank. This should be a large tank, at least 100 gallons, with a sandy bottom. The water should be clean and well-filtered. The temperature should be kept between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Next, you need to add some plants and hiding places. Indonesian tigerfish like to have a lot of places to hide. Driftwood, rocks, and caves are all good options. Once the tank is set up, you can add the fish. You will need at least one male and one female. These fish can be aggressive, so it’s best to keep them in a group. The next step is to trigger spawning. The best way to do this is to lower the water level by about 10 percent. This will trigger the fish to start breeding. Once the fish start breeding, you will see the female lay eggs in a hidden area of the tank. The male will then fertilize the eggs. After the eggs are fertilized, the male will guard them. The eggs will hatch in about two weeks. Once the fry have hatched, you can remove the adults from the tank. The fry will feed on small insects and larvae. You can also give them commercial fry food. As they grow, you can start to introduce them to live food. Conclusion The Indonesian Tigerfish is a beautiful and intriguing fish that is sure to add some excitement to your aquarium. While they may be challenging to care for, we think it’s worth the effort to have such a unique and stunning fish in your collection. As long as you are prepared to provide them with the proper care, we think you’ll be very happy with these fish.

The Amazon leaffish is a freshwater fish that is native to the Amazon basin. This fish is unique in both its appearance and its behavior. It is a nocturnal fish that hides during the day and comes out to feed at night. The Amazon leaffish is also a very slow-moving fish, which makes it an easy target for predators. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about Amazon leaffish care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Amazon leaffish (scientific name: Niphargus kotlani) are native to South America and can be found in various river basins throughout the Amazon rainforest. They are a burrowing species of fish that spends the majority of its time hidden away in the mud at the bottom of these rivers. When it feels threatened, it will quickly dart back into its burrow for safety. Amazon leaffish are very difficult to keep in captivity and are not recommended for beginner aquarium hobbyists. They are very sensitive to changes in water quality and require a very specific diet that can be hard to replicate in an aquarium setting. Despite these challenges, Amazon leaffish are a very popular fish among experienced aquarium hobbyists due to their unique appearance and behavior. Appearance The first thing you’ll notice about this fish is their unique shape. As their name suggests, these fish have a very leaf-like appearance. They are very thin and have a unique “forked” tail fin. The body of the Amazon leaffish is a brown or olive color. This color can vary quite a bit depending on the specific fish and their habitat. You’ll also notice that there are a series of dark spots that run along their body. These spots are larger near the head and get smaller as they go down the fish. The fins on this fish are also quite unique. The dorsal fin is very tall and thin. It starts about halfway back on the body and extends all the way to the tail. The caudal and anal fins are also tall and thin. They are much shorter than the dorsal fin however. The pectoral fins are very small in comparison to the rest of the fins on this fish. They are located near the head and are used for steering more than anything else. Amazon leaffish have large eyes that are very close to the top of their head. This gives them very good vision and helps them to avoid predators. Lifespan In the wild, the Amazon leaffish lifespan is only about 2 years. This is due to the fact that they have a lot of predators and they’re also constantly on the lookout for food. In captivity, however, they can live up to 5 years if they’re well cared for. The main thing you need to do is provide them with a good diet and a stress-free environment. Size The average size of an Amazon leaffish is between 4 and 6 inches. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for Amazon leaffish is 30 gallons. If you’re looking for a freshwater fish that can fit in an average-sized tank, this is not the fish for you. If you want to keep two Amazon leaffish in the same tank you’ll want to add at least another 30 gallons to that minimum number if you want them to thrive. Another reason why you need to provide enough space is for the sake of enrichment and comfort. These fish like to roam and will often run gentle but steady laps around your tank. Giving them a little bit of extra space can go a long way in making sure they can comfortably turn around in the tank. Water Parameters The Amazon leaffish can live in a wide range of water conditions, making it a good choice for the beginner fish keeper. While it’s possible to keep this species in water that’s outside the ideal range, it’s not recommended. The fish will be under more stress, and that can lead to health problems down the road. To give your fish the best chance at a long and healthy life, stick to the following parameters as closely as possible. Water temperature: 68 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.0 to 7.8 Water hardness: 2 to 20 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 2-12 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Amazon leaffish are native to slow moving waters in the Amazon basin. This means that when setting up their tank you’ll want to try and recreate these conditions as best as you can. The first thing you’ll want to do is add a layer of soft substrate to the bottom of the tank. These fish like to burrow and a softer substrate will be more comfortable for them. Next, you’ll want to add some plants and driftwood to the inside of their habitat. These fish like to have plenty of places to hide so don’t be afraid to go overboard with this. Java moss, hornwort, and water wisteria are all great plant choices. As for driftwood, anything that’s dense and won’t float to the surface will work great. You can also add some rocks to their tank if you want. Just make sure that they’re not too sharp or jagged since these fish are known to swim into things from time to time. Common Diseases The Amazon leaffish is a very hardy and disease-resistant fish. They’re not immune to sickness, of course, but it’s quite rare for them to fall ill. The most common disease that affects this species is ich. This is a very common freshwater parasite that can affect any fish, no matter how big or small. The most obvious sign of ich is the presence of white spots on the body, fins, and gills of your fish. If you notice this, it’s important to take action immediately. Ich is very contagious and can quickly spread to other fish in your tank. There are plenty of ich treatment options available, so consult your vet or a fish expert to figure out the best course of action. Another thing to keep an eye out for is any cuts or scrapes on the body of your fish. These can easily become infected, so it’s important to keep the tank clean and monitor your fish closely. As long as you take good care of your Amazon leaffish and keep a close eye on them, they should be healthy and happy for many years to come. Behavior & Temperament The amazon leaffish is a shy creature that spends most of its time hiding in plants. Because of this, it’s important to have a lot of vegetation in their tank. This fish is a loner and does not like to be around other fish. It is important to only have one amazon leaffish per tank because they can be very territorial. The amazon leaffish is a nocturnal creature so it is important to provide hiding places for them to sleep during the day. This fish is not aggressive and is not known to attack other fish. Tank Mates As their name suggests, Amazon leaffish are native to the Amazon river basin. This is a tropical region, so the water is warm and has a high level of dissolved minerals. The Amazon leaffish is a peaceful community fish that does well with other species. In fact, they’re often used as dither fish to help shy fish feel more comfortable in the open. Some compatible tank mates for Amazon leaffish include: Tetras Guppies Mollies Platies Swordtails Corydoras catfish Plecostomus Otocinclus catfish Breeding Amazon leaffish don’t typically breed in captivity. If you’re interested in breeding them, your best bet is to find a wild caught female and male. The female should be gravid, or carrying eggs. You can tell by looking for a distended abdomen. The male will also have some physical changes. His fins will be longer and he’ll be more brightly colored. Once you’ve found a pair, put them in a breeding tank. The tank should be at least 20 gallons and have plenty of hiding places. You can use plants, caves, and driftwood. The water should be soft and acidic. Aim for a pH of 6.0 and a hardness of 2-4 dGH. The temperature should be around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. When everything is set up, add the female first. Give her a few days to adjust to the new environment. Then, add the male. Spawning usually happens at night. The female will lay her eggs on a plant leaf or piece of driftwood. The male will fertilize them. After spawning, the adults should be removed. The eggs will hatch in 5-7 days. The fry are delicate, so they need to be in a well-filtered tank. You can feed them baby brine shrimp or microworms. As they grow, you can start to add larger live foods. Conclusion The Amazon leaffish is a beautiful and popular freshwater fish. They’re relatively easy to care for but there are a few things you’ll need to know to keep them healthy and happy. In general, we think they make great additions to community tanks. They’re peaceful and get along well with other fish. However, they can be a little shy so we recommend giving them some hiding places. We also recommend keeping them in groups of at least 3 since they’re social fish. Overall, the Amazon leaffish is a great fish for beginning and experienced aquarists alike. We hope you enjoy them as much as we do!

The Indian glassy fish is an absolutely stunning freshwater fish that will add a lot of color and personality to your aquarium. This species is native to India and Sri Lanka, and is a popular choice for fishkeepers due to their hardiness and bright colors. However, glassy fish are not easy to find in pet stores. In fact, they’re actually quite rare. But if you’re lucky enough to find one, this guide will teach you everything you need to know about Indian glassy fish care. You’ll learn about their diet, tank mates, size, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The Indian glassy fish (scientific name: Parambassis ranga) is a freshwater fish that’s native to India and Sri Lanka. They’re found in a wide variety of habitats, but they prefer slow-moving waters with plenty of vegetation. This could be anything from ponds and lakes to rivers and streams. One of the most notable things about glassy fish is their appearance. As you might’ve guessed from their name, they have a very translucent body. This is due to the fact that they have very few scales, which is something that’s fairly uncommon in the fish world. Indian glassy fish are very popular in the aquarium trade. They’re relatively easy to care for and make a beautiful addition to any freshwater tank. Appearance The Indian glassy fish is a freshwater fish that is native to India. As the name suggests, these fish are very transparent. In fact, they’re almost completely see-through! The only thing that isn’t transparent on these fish is their eyes and a few of the organs in their body. Other than that, you can see right through them. These fish have a very unique body shape that is long and slender. They have a small mouth that is located at the end of a long snout. The Indian glassy fish has a dorsal fin and an anal fin that are both located towards the back of their body. They also have a small caudal fin. The Indian glassy fish is a very peaceful fish that is not aggressive towards other fish. They are a schooling fish and prefer to live in groups. Lifespan 3 years The Indian glassy fish is a small and delicate fish. It has a lifespan of 3 years, but it can live up to 5 years in captivity if well taken care of. Size Indian glassy fish only grow to be about 2.5 inches long. Tank Tank Size The minimum tank size for glassy fish is 30 gallons. If you’re looking for a freshwater fish that can fit in an average-sized tank, this is not the fish for you. If you want to keep two glassy fish in the same tank you’ll want to add at least another 30 gallons to that minimum number if you want them to thrive. Another reason why you need to provide enough space is for the sake of enrichment and comfort. These fish like to roam and will often run gentle but steady laps around your tank. Giving them a little bit of extra space can go a long way in making sure they can comfortably turn around in the tank. Water Parameters The Indian glassy fish is a tropical freshwater species that prefers warm water with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. They’re found in slow-moving rivers and still lakes in their native India. In the aquarium, they do best in a well-oxygenated tank with plenty of hiding places. Here are some recommended water parameters for glassy fish. Water temperature: 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.8 to 7.6 Water hardness: 5 to 15 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 6-12 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the interior of their tank, Indian glassy fish are not too picky. They prefer a sandy substrate, but they will do fine with gravel as well. As for plants, they are not known to eat them so you can add whatever you want. We recommend something that will provide them with some cover though (like Hornwort or Java Moss). These fish also like to have a few pieces of driftwood in their tank. This gives them something to hide behind and makes them feel more secure. One last thing to keep in mind is that these fish are known to jump out of the water. It’s important to have a lid on their tank to prevent this from happening. Common Diseases Indian glassy fish are pretty hardy, but that doesn’t mean they don’t get sick from time to time. The most common disease that affects this species is ich. Ich is a very common freshwater parasite that can result in some pretty nasty symptoms. The most obvious sign of ich is the presence of white spots on the body of your fish. These spots can eventually lead to gill damage, difficulty breathing, and even death if left untreated. Fortunately, ich is relatively easy to treat. There are a variety of products on the market that will help rid your fish of the parasite. The best way to prevent ich (or any other disease) is to maintain clean and stable water conditions in your tank. This will make your fish much more resistant to disease and less likely to get sick in the first place. Behavior & Temperament Indian glassy fish tend to be peaceful and can get along with other fish that have a similar temperament. They’re not known to be aggressive, although they may nibble on the fins of other fish if they’re not given enough to eat. These fish are relatively active and enjoy swimming around in groups. They’re not shy, so you’ll often see them out in the open. Indian glassy fish are known to be good jumpers, so it’s important to have a lid on your tank. They’re also known to be escape artists, so make sure your tank is secure. Tank Mates Indian glassy fish are a peaceful and docile species. As a result, they can get along with most tank mates. The only time you might have an issue is if you keep them with larger and more aggressive fish. These fish can be bullied and might not do well in a tank with fish that are too assertive. Other than that, there are tons of compatible species. Here are some of the best Indian glassy fish tank mates: Neon Tetra Cardinal Tetra Ghost Shrimp Guppy Platy Fish Corydoras Catfish Otocinclus Catfish Cherry Shrimp Mollies Breeding The Indian glassy fish is a beautiful, peaceful, and popular aquarium fish. They’re not too difficult to care for, but their breeding process can be a bit challenging. The first step is to set up a breeding tank. It should hold at least 20 gallons of water and have a sponge filter. The tank should also be dimly lit and have plenty of hiding places. Next, you need to adjust the water parameters. The temperature should be between 77 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. The water hardness should be between 5 and 15 dGH. Once the tank is set up, you can add the fish. You’ll need at least one male and two females. It’s best to have more females than males. The next step is to condition the fish. Feed them live and frozen foods. You can also use high-quality pellets and flakes. This will help to bring the females into breeding condition. When the females are ready, they will start to lay eggs. The males will then fertilize them. The eggs will be scattered all over the tank. Once the eggs have been laid, remove the adults. The eggs will hatch in about 24 hours. The fry will be very small, so you’ll need to feed them live foods. Baby brine shrimp and microscopic worms are both good options. You can also use a commercial fry food. As the fry grow, you can start to introduce them to pellets and flakes. Conclusion Indian glassy fish are a great choice for beginner fishkeepers. They’re relatively hardy and can adapt to a wide range of water conditions. They’re also very peaceful, so they’re a good choice if you want to add some color to your tank without worrying about aggression. Overall, we think they’re a great choice for beginner aquarists or anyone who wants a low-maintenance fish.

The Javanese ricefish is a beautiful and peaceful freshwater fish that is perfect for beginner aquarium hobbyists. This species is very easy to care for and can tolerate a wide range of water conditions, making them one of the most versatile fish in the hobby. They are also a very active fish that loves to swim and explore their surroundings. In this guide, we will teach you everything you need to know about Javanese ricefish care. You will learn about their diet, tank size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The Javanese ricefish (Oryzias javanicus) is a species of freshwater fish that’s native to Indonesia and Malaysia. They are found in a variety of habitats, but they prefer areas with slower-moving water and plenty of vegetation. Javanese ricefish are fairly small, only reaching a maximum length of about 2.5 centimeters (1 inch). Despite their small size, they are a very popular choice for aquariums because of their beautiful coloration. They are silver with a series of black stripes running down their sides. Javanese ricefish are very peaceful and can be kept with a wide variety of other fish species. Appearance The Javanese ricefish is a beautiful and unique species of freshwater fish. They have a long and thin body that is brown or olive green in color. The fins on this fish are also brown or olive green and are quite slender. The dorsal fin is located towards the back of the fish and is slightly longer than the anal fin. The caudal fin is forked and is slightly longer than the dorsal fin. This fish also has two barbels on its lower jaw that it uses to help it find food. The Javanese ricefish is a peaceful fish that is perfect for beginners. They are also a good choice for community tanks because they get along well with other fish. Lifespan The lifespan of a Javanese ricefish in captivity is about 2 years. In the wild, their lifespan is probably a bit shorter due to predation and other factors. As with any fish, there are a number of things that can impact the lifespan of a Javanese ricefish. The quality of the water they’re kept in, their diet, and whether or not they’re stressed are all important factors. Size Javanese ricefish only grow to be about 2 inches in length. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for Javanese ricefish is 5 gallons. If you’re looking for a nano fish to add to your aquarium, this is a good option. While they can technically survive in a smaller tank, we recommend going with at least a 10 gallon tank if you want to keep a school of these fish. This will give them plenty of room to swim around and stay healthy. Water Parameters The Javanese ricefish is a small freshwater fish that is native to the island of Java in Indonesia. This fish is often kept in aquariums and can be a great addition to any freshwater setup. Javanese ricefish are not demanding when it comes to water parameters. They can live in a wide range of conditions and are very adaptable. With that said, it’s always best to try and replicate their natural habitat as closely as possible. This will help keep them healthy and happy in captivity. Here are a few guidelines to follow when setting up a Javanese ricefish aquarium. Water temperature: 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.5 to 7.5 Water hardness: 2 to 12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank The Javanese ricefish is a small and delicate species, so it’s important that you take care when setting up their habitat. The substrate should be a soft and sandy material. This will protect their fins and make it easier for them to move around. We also recommend including some plants in their tank. These can provide them with hiding places and make the environment feel more natural. Some good options include Java moss, water wisteria, and hornwort. You should also include a few rocks or pieces of driftwood. These can provide some needed hiding places and also help to break up the line of sight in the aquarium. One last thing to keep in mind is that Javanese ricefish are a schooling species. This means they need to be kept in groups of at least 6 fish. If you’re keeping them in a smaller tank, then you might need to adjust the number of fish accordingly. Common Diseases Thankfully, Javanese ricefish are pretty hardy when it comes to disease. They’re not immune to everything, but they’re certainly more resistant than most other freshwater fish. The most common disease that affects this species is ich. This is a parasite that will attach itself to your fish and cause a whole host of problems. The most obvious sign of ich is the presence of white spots on the body of your fish. If you see this, you need to take action immediately. Another disease that can affect this species (albeit less commonly) is hole-in-the-head disease. This is another water quality related illness that will present itself as, you guessed it, holes in the head of your fish. If you notice any strange spots or changes in your fish’s behavior, it’s always best to consult a vet or experienced aquarist. They’ll be able to help you determine if your fish is sick and, if so, how to treat them. Of course, the best way to prevent your fish from getting sick in the first place is to maintain a clean and stable tank. This will go a long way in keeping your Javanese ricefish healthy and disease-free. Behavior & Temperament The Javanese ricefish is a peaceful community fish that does well in a wide variety of tanks. They’re not known to be aggressive and will often school with other fish. If you want to keep more than one Javanese ricefish, it’s best to have at least six of them. That way, they can feel more comfortable and less stressed in their environment. These fish are relatively active and love to swim around the tank. They’re not finicky eaters, so you won’t have to worry about them being picky when it comes to food. One thing to keep in mind is that Javanese ricefish are jumpers. So, if you have an open tank, make sure to cover it with a lid to prevent them from escaping. Tank Mates Javanese ricefish are peaceful community fish. They do well with a wide variety of tank mates as long as the other fish are also peaceful. These fish are small, so they can be easily intimidated or eaten by larger fish. They’re best kept with other small fish that occupy different parts of the water column. Some good tank mates for Javanese ricefish include: Neon Tetras Ghost shrimp Endler’s livebearers Guppies Mollies Platies Swordtails Breeding The Javanese ricefish is a great beginner fish for anyone looking to get into breeding. They’re easy to care for and don’t require a lot of special equipment or knowledge. To start, you’ll need a breeding tank that’s at least 10 gallons. The tank should be well-aerated and have a sponge filter. You’ll also need some live plants and a layer of gravel on the bottom. As for water conditions, aim for a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 and a temperature between 77 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. When it comes to sexing these fish, males are usually smaller and have longer fins. Females are typically larger and have a more rounded body shape. To increase your chances of breeding, aim for a ratio of two males to every female. Once you have your fish in the breeding tank, feed them live foods and plenty of high-quality flakes. After a few weeks, you should start to see the females getting fuller. That’s a sign that they’re ready to lay eggs. The eggs will be laid on the plants in the tank. Once they’re laid, the male will fertilize them and then stand guard. He’ll do this until the eggs hatch, which usually takes about two weeks. Once the fry have hatched, you can remove the adults from the tank. The fry will feed on algae and other small organisms in the tank. You can supplement their diet with baby brine shrimp or crushed-up flakes. As they grow, you can slowly start to introduce them to larger foods. Once they’re big enough, they can be moved to your main tank. Conclusion The Javanese ricefish is a great addition to any freshwater aquarium. They’re peaceful, beautiful, and easy to care for. We hope this guide has helped you learn everything you need to know about Javanese ricefish care. If you have any questions or would like to share your experiences with these fish, feel free to leave a comment below!

The freshwater needlefish is a very interesting and unique fish that is perfect for the more experienced fishkeeper. This fish is not for everyone, and should only be kept by those who are willing to put in the time and effort to care for them properly. In this guide, we will go over everything you need to know about freshwater needlefish care. From diet and tank mates, to breeding and common problems. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The freshwater needlefish (Chitala ornata) is a freshwater fish that is found in many parts of Southeast Asia. They prefer slow-moving water with a lot of vegetation, but they can also be found in fast-moving water and even brackish water. Freshwater needlefish are carnivores and primarily eat smaller fish. In the wild, they have been known to reach lengths of up to 3 feet, but in aquariums, they are usually much smaller. Due to their long, slender bodies and their hunting habits, freshwater needlefish are not recommended for most aquariums. They are best suited for experienced fishkeepers who have the time and patience to care for them properly. Appearance The first thing you’ll notice about this fish is their needle-like mouth. This is where they get their name from. The mouth is filled with sharp teeth that they use to eat other fish (more on that in a bit). The body of the needlefish is long, thin, and very hydrodynamic. This helps them swim quickly and easily through the water. The dorsal fin is located towards the back of the body and is tall and thin. The anal fin is of a similar size and shape and is located just in front of the dorsal fin. Both of these fins are dark in color and can look almost black at times. The caudal fin is forked and also dark in color. The pectoral fins are small and located towards the front of the body. The needlefish is an overall silver color with a hint of blue. There are also some darker spots on their body that help them blend in with their surroundings. These fish have large eyes that are silver in color with a black pupil. Lifespan The lifespan of freshwater needlefish is around 3-5 years on average, with some individual fish living up to 10 years in captivity. Needlefish are a relatively delicate species, and their lifespan can be shortened by a number of different factors. Poor water quality, for example, is a major stressor that can lead to disease and premature death. In order to give your needlefish the best chance at a long life, it’s important to provide them with a well-maintained tank and a nutritious diet. Size These long and thin freshwater fish can grow to be up to 18 inches in length, but the average size is between 10 and 12 inches. They are a bit delicate fish, so it’s important to provide them with a spacious and clean aquarium. Tank Tank Size The minimum tank size for freshwater needlefish is 50 gallons. If you have a smaller tank, you might be able to get away with keeping just one fish but we don’t recommend it. These fish are very active and need a lot of space to swim. If you want to keep more than one needlefish in the same tank, you’ll need to add an additional 50 gallons for each fish. Water Parameters The freshwater needlefish is a tropical fish that requires warm water to thrive. They’re a bit more delicate than some of the other species on this list, so it’s important to maintain stable water conditions. This species is a bit more challenging to care for than some of the others on this list. They’re not as forgiving when it comes to water quality and can be sensitive to changes in their environment. You’ll need to do regular water changes and keep a close eye on the levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Any spikes in these levels can be harmful, and even fatal, to needlefish. Water temperature: 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.8 to 7.6 Water hardness: 2 to 12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Needlefish are a unique species that have some specific requirements when it comes to their habitat. The most important factor is the amount of open space that’s available to them. These fish are known for their ability to jump out of the water so a tank with a lid is a must. On top of that, you need to make sure there aren’t any obstacles in their way. That means no plants, rocks, or decorations that they could potentially get tangled up in. The substrate you choose is also important. Anything too small can be a choking hazard, so avoid sand or gravel that’s less than 1 cm in diameter. A smooth, sandy bottom is ideal. As for plants, you can get away with adding some floating varieties. Just make sure they don’t have any long stems or leaves that the fish could get wrapped up in. You can also include some driftwood or rocks as long as they’re big enough that the fish can’t swim through them. Common Diseases Needlefish are a rather hardy species, but that doesn’t mean they can’t get sick. The most common illness that affects this fish is ich, which is a parasites that can cause a lot of problems. The main symptom of ich is white spots on the body of your fish. If you notice this, it’s important to take action immediately and begin treatment. There are a number of other potential diseases that can affect needlefish, but they’re not as common. Things like fungal infections, bacterial infections, and parasites can all cause problems. As with any other fish, the best way to prevent these diseases is to maintain a clean and stable tank. Needlefish are not particularly sensitive to water conditions, but keeping the tank clean will help to prevent any potential problems. Behavior & Temperament The freshwater needlefish is a skittish and jumpy fish. In the wild, these fish spend most of their time in open water hunting for small prey. This natural behavior is what leads to their constant movement and lack of ability to sit still for long periods of time. This fish is not for everyone. It’s best suited for experienced aquarists who can provide them with a large tank and plenty of live food to hunt. If you’re not prepared to do either of those things, we recommend you choose a different fish. Needlefish are not social creatures. In fact, they’re quite the opposite. These fish are known to be loners and will often hide away from their tank mates. If you’re keeping more than one needlefish, it’s best to give them plenty of space to avoid aggression. Although they’re not the friendliest fish, they are entertaining to watch. Their constant movement and hunting behavior is a sight to behold. Just be sure you’re prepared to provide them with everything they need before you bring one home. Tank Mates When it comes to freshwater needlefish, there are a few things to consider. First, these fish are fast and agile. They’re known for their speed in open water and their ability to make quick turns. This makes them great predators, which is something to keep in mind when choosing tank mates. Secondly, they’re not the best swimmers in the world. In fact, they often get tangled in plants and other objects in the tank. This is important to consider because you don’t want to put them in a tank with fish that are nippy or aggressive. Finally, they need a lot of open space to swim. A crowded tank is not ideal for this species. With all of that in mind, here are some compatible tank mates for freshwater needlefish: Danios Tetras Barbs Rainbows Gouramis Loaches Breeding The freshwater needlefish is a bit of an unusual fish. It’s not often seen in the aquarium trade, but it’s still a beautiful fish that can make a great addition to your tank. If you’re interested in breeding this species, there are a few things you need to know. First, you need to identify the males and females. Males are typically larger and have more colorful fins. The easiest way to tell them apart is by looking at the anal fin. Males have a long, extended anal fin, while females have a shorter, rounded one. Once you’ve identified the males and females, you need to set up a breeding tank. The tank should be at least 30 gallons and should have plenty of hiding places. The water temperature should be between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. When the tank is set up and the fish have had time to acclimate, you can start feeding them live foods. This will help to trigger spawning. The female will lay her eggs in a plant or other piece of decor. The male will then fertilize them. Once the eggs are fertilized, the male will guard them. After about a week, the eggs will hatch. The fry will be very small, so you need to be careful when feeding them. They can’t eat live foods right away. You need to start them off on infusoria and then move on to baby brine shrimp. As they grow, you can gradually increase the size of the food you’re giving them. Conclusion The freshwater needlefish is a unique and interesting fish that is sure to add some excitement to your tank. They are relatively easy to care for but do have some specific needs that you will need to be aware of. Overall, we think they make a great addition to any freshwater tank and would recommend them to any fish owner looking to add something new and different to their aquarium.

The Spotfinned spiny eel is a beautiful and unique freshwater fish that is perfect for the intermediate fish keeper. This species is relatively easy to care for, but does require a bit more attention than some of the other fish on this list. But if you’re up for the challenge, the Spotfinned spiny eel is a great addition to any freshwater tank. In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about Spotfinned spiny eel care. Tank size, diet, tank mates, and more. It’s all here! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The Spotfinned Spiny Eel (Mastacembelus armatus) is a freshwater fish that is native to tropical Africa. It is found in rivers and lakes throughout the Congo Basin. This eel is nocturnal and prefers to live in areas with plenty of hiding spots. This could be among rocks, plants, or wood. The main diet of the Spotfinned Spiny Eel is small invertebrates, although they have been known to eat the occasional fish. This eel gets its name from the spots that are on its fins. These spots are black and help the eel camouflage itself among the rocks and plants in its natural habitat. The Spotfinned Spiny Eel is a popular choice for aquariums because of its unique appearance. It is important to note that this eel can grow to be quite large, so it is important to provide it with plenty of space to swim. Appearance This is a long fish that can grow up to 3 feet in length! They have a slender body that is covered in small scales. The body tapers down to a point at the end. The dorsal fin is located about halfway back on the body and is tall and thin. The anal fin is located on the underside of the body and is also tall and thin. Both of these fins are spinous. The pectoral and ventral fins are located on the sides of the body. The caudal fin is forked and located at the end of the body. The head of the fish is narrow with a small mouth. The eyes are small and located on the top of the head. The body is pale with dark spots. The spots are more pronounced on the dorsal and caudal fins. Lifespan The average lifespan of a spiny eel is between 3 and 5 years. However, there have been reports of these fish living up to 10 years in captivity. As with most fish, the lifespan of a spiny eel is greatly impacted by the quality of care it receives. Things like water quality, diet, and stress can all shorten their lifespan. Size The average Spotfinned spiny eel size is between 8 and 10 inches in length when fully grown. However, they can grow to be up to 12 inches long in some cases. These eels are slender, but they can get pretty big! Tank Tank Size A 75 gallon or larger aquarium is recommended for a single adult fish, and 125 gallons or more for a pair. Spiny eels are relatively inactive fish and don’t require a lot of swimming space. However, they do need a hiding place and plenty of places to hide. A densely planted aquarium with hiding places amongst the plants is ideal. Caves, driftwood, and rocks can all provide good hiding places for spiny eels. Be sure to give them plenty of options so they can feel secure in their new home. Water Parameters The water parameters for a Spotfinned spiny eel are relatively straightforward. These fish come from slow-moving, warm rivers and streams in Southeast Asia. To recreate this environment in your aquarium, you’ll need to maintain the following water parameters: Water temperature: 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.5 to 7.5 Water hardness: 4 to 10 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 2-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Spiny eels are a little different when it comes to setting up their home. They’re not too picky about the substrate and can live in both fresh and salt water. We recommend using a sand substrate since it’s softer on their bodies (they like to burrow a lot). You can also use gravel, but avoid anything too sharp or jagged. The inside of their tank should be pretty bare. They don’t need any plants or decorations. In fact, too many things can stress them out. The only thing we recommend putting in their tank is a hiding place. This can be something as simple as a cave or a piece of driftwood. Since they’re nocturnal animals, they’ll spend most of the day hiding away. Having a hiding place will help them feel more comfortable and reduce stress levels. Common Diseases These fish are actually quite hardy and don’t usually get sick. However, there are a few things you need to watch out for to make sure your fish stays healthy. The most common disease you’ll see in these fish is ich. This is a parasite that can cause a lot of trouble if it’s not dealt with quickly. The most obvious symptom of ich is the presence of white spots on the body of your fish. If you see this, it’s important to act fast and begin treatment immediately. Other than ich, the other thing you need to watch out for is infection. This can happen if your fish gets a cut or scrape. The best way to prevent this is to make sure the tank is well-suited for these fish. They need a soft substrate and plenty of hiding places to feel secure. If the tank is too small or doesn’t have the right type of substrate, your fish may become stressed and more susceptible to illness. Behavior & Temperament The Spotfinned spiny eel is a very peaceful creature that spends the majority of its time hiding in caves or other dark places in the tank. They are nocturnal animals, so they are most active at night. During the day, they like to stay hidden away from the light. When they first wake up, they may be a little grumpy and not want to be bothered. But, once they have had time to adjust, they will be their normal, happy selves. Spotfinned spiny eels are not aggressive and will not bother other fish in the tank. In fact, they are quite shy and will do their best to avoid confrontation. The only time they may become aggressive is if they feel threatened or are not getting enough food. Tank Mates Spotfinned spiny eel tank mates are limited to species that can handle brackish water conditions. This is because the eel is native to brackish estuaries and mangrove swamps. These environments have a mix of fresh and saltwater. As a result, the eel isn’t comfortable in either extreme. They do best in an environment that’s somewhere in the middle. The good news is that there are plenty of brackish water fish to choose from. Here are some compatible spotfinned spiny eel tank mates: Bumblebee goby Fiddler crab Archerfish Bumblebee shrimp Indian mudskipper Knight goby Orange chromide Two-spot goby Breeding Spotfinned spiny eels are difficult to breed in captivity. It’s not impossible, but it does require a lot of care and attention. These fish are very sensitive to changes in their environment. Even the slightest change can impact their health and wellbeing. The first step is to set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 30 gallons in size. Then, add some hiding places. These fish like to have a lot of places to hide. Driftwood, caves, and plants will all work. Next, you need to adjust the water parameters. The pH should be between 6.7 and 7.2. The water hardness should be between 5 and 10 dH. The temperature should be between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the tank is set up, it’s time to add the fish. You’ll need one male and two females. The male is usually the larger of the two. He’ll also have longer fins. Once the fish are in the tank, you need to feed them live food. Worms, brine shrimp, and bloodworms are all good options. The next step is to wait. These fish take their time when it comes to spawning. It can take weeks or even months for everything to come together. When the female is ready to lay her eggs, she’ll do it in a hidden area of the tank. The male will then fertilize them. After that, he’ll stay with the eggs and protect them. It takes about two weeks for the eggs to hatch. When they do, the fry will be very small. They’ll need to be fed live food. Baby brine shrimp are a good option. As they grow, you can start to introduce other foods. pellets and flakes will work. Just make sure that the food is small enough for them to eat. Conclusion Spotfinned spiny eel care can seem daunting at first, but it’s not as scary as it seems once you learn about them. Sure, there are some different things you’ll have to be mindful of, but we think it’s worth it. These fish make great additions to community tanks but also do very well when kept with a few of their own kind. This gives you some options with how you want to keep them once you understand how to keep them healthy and ensure that they thrive. Overall, we’re big fans of the Spotfinned spiny eel and highly recommend them to tank owners who want to mix things up a little bit!

The tire track eel is a beautiful and unique freshwater fish that is perfect for the beginner aquarist. They are hardy and can tolerate a wide range of water conditions, making them a great choice for those just starting out. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about tire track eel care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Tire track eels (Mastacembelus armatus) are found throughout a large portion of Southeast Asia. Their habitats include countries like Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. They prefer slow-moving waters with a lot of vegetation and hiding places. This is something that’s not too difficult to replicate in most aquariums. Tire track eels are nocturnal predators that primarily eat small fish, invertebrates, and even smaller eels. In the wild, they have been known to grow up to 3 feet long but in captivity, they usually max out at around 2 feet. One of the most notable things about this fish is the black and white stripes that run down the length of their body. This is how they got their name and it’s something that really makes them stand out in the aquarium world. Appearance The Tire Track Eel is a very interesting-looking creature. As you can probably guess from their name, they have a tire-track pattern that goes down the length of their bodies. This pattern is made up of two dark lines that start at the eel’s head and run all the way down to the tip of their tail. In between these lines is a lighter color that can be anything from white to yellow. The Tire Track Eel’s body is long and slender with a snake-like appearance. They have a small head with two beady eyes that sit on the sides of their head. They have a small mouth that is filled with sharp teeth that they use to tear their food apart. The Tire Track Eel’s fins are small and inconspicuous. They have a small dorsal fin that is located towards the back of their body. They also have a small anal fin and a very small caudal fin. The Tire Track Eel’s skin is smooth and slimy. They secrete a slime that helps them to move through the water and also protects them from parasites and diseases. Lifespan Tire track eels have a lifespan of 5 to 10 years. The lifespan of a tire track eel can be greatly impacted by the quality of care it receives. Poor water quality, for example, can shorten the lifespan of a tire track eel significantly. Size These eels can grow to be about 2-3 feet in length, but are typically only about 1-2 feet long in captivity. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for a tire track eel is 30 gallons. If you have a smaller tank you might be able to get away with a 20 gallon tank but we don’t recommend it. The main reason why you need a larger tank is because these fish grow to be quite large. They can reach up to 3 feet in length so you need to make sure you have enough space for them to comfortably swim around. Another reason why a larger tank is better is because it provides more stability. A smaller tank is more likely to fluctuate in temperature and water quality which can be stressful for your fish. Water Parameters The tire track eel is a freshwater fish that is native to Southeast Asia. They are found in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. The tire track eel prefers to live in slow-moving waters with plenty of hiding places. They are often found in canals, ditches, and ponds. In the wild, the tire track eel’s diet consists of small crustaceans, insects, and worms. In captivity, the tire track eel is a peaceful fish that does well with other peaceful fish. They can be shy at first, but they will eventually come out and explore their new home. The tire track eel is a nocturnal fish, so they are most active at night. The tire track eel prefers a water temperature of 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. The water hardness should be between 5 and 15 dGH. What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to the inside of their tank, you have a few different options. You can go the natural route and try to recreate their native habitat as best you can. This would involve a lot of plants, driftwood, and rocks. You could also go for a more minimalist approach and have a bare bottom tank. This is the route we recommend since it’s easier to clean and these fish are burrowers. If you do go with a bare bottom tank we recommend using a dark substrate. This will help to make your Tire Track Eel feel more secure since they’ll be able to see their reflection. It will also help to make them stand out a bit more (they’re not the most colorful fish). As for decorations, a few pieces of driftwood or some rocks should be fine. Avoid anything too big or sharp since they might burrow underneath it and get stuck. Common Diseases The tire track eel is a hardy fish that is relatively resistant to disease. However, that doesn’t mean that they’re immune to everything. There are a few things that you need to watch out for when keeping tire track eels. The most common ailment that these fish experience is hole-in-the-head disease. This is a condition that is caused by poor water quality and the presence of activated carbon in the tank. It presents itself as one or two pits/holes in the skin of your eel’s head. While it’s almost always curable (fixing your water quality and removing activated carbon is usually all you need to do), it will usually leave some scarring on your poor eel! The other disease you need to be aware of is ich. This is a very common freshwater disease that can affect any fish, no matter the species. It manifests itself as white spots on the body, fish, and gills of your fish. If you notice this, it’s important to act fast and begin treatment immediately. The best way to prevent these diseases is, as always, by maintaining a clean and stable tank. If you provide your tire track eel with good living conditions, they will be much less likely to fall ill. Behavior & Temperament The tire track eel is a nocturnal creature, so don’t expect to see much activity during the day. These fish are most active at night when they come out to scavenge for food. During the day, they like to stay hidden in the dark recesses of their tanks. This can make them seem a bit shy, but they’re really just trying to stay out of the light. The tire track eel is a peaceful creature that is typically gentle with others, unless it feels threatened. If it does feel threatened, it will try to escape first. If that’s not possible, it will use its sharp teeth to defend itself. Overall, the tire track eel is a relatively low-maintenance fish that is easy to care for. As long as you provide it with a hiding place and plenty of food, it will be happy in its new home. Tank Mates Tire track eels are a predatory species, which means they will eat anything they can fit in their mouth. This includes other fish, inverts, and even smaller eels. Due to their nocturnal habits, they’re also known to eat fish that are sleeping. For this reason, it’s important to choose tank mates that are too large to be eaten and/or are fast enough to get away. With that in mind, here are some compatible tank mates for tire track eels: Arrowana Arowana Oscar Convict Cichlid Jack Dempsey Green Terror Firemouth Cichlid Texas Cichlid Plecostomus Breeding Breeding tire track eels is not for the faint of heart. These fish are difficult to keep, let alone breed. If you’re up for the challenge, though, the process can be rewarding. First, you’ll need to set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 50 gallons and filled with soft, sandy substrate. The water should be clean and well-filtered. Keep the temperature between 78 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Next, add some hiding places. These eels like to burrow, so provide them with plenty of places to do so. Driftwood, rocks, and caves will all work. Now you’ll need to add the eels. Start with one male and two females. The male will be the larger of the three. As with most fish, the key to successful breeding is to make sure the eels are well-fed. They should be eating a varied diet of live, frozen, and pellets. Once the eels are comfortable and well-fed, the female will lay her eggs. The male will then fertilize them. Eggs will be laid in a hidden area, usually under a rock or in a cave. The male will guard them until they hatch. The eggs will take about two weeks to hatch. Once they do, the fry will be on their own. They’ll need to find food in the form of small invertebrates. Tire track eel breeding is not for the casual hobbyist. These fish are difficult to care for and even more difficult to breed. But if you’re up for the challenge, the process can be rewarding. Conclusion The Tire Track Eel is an excellent beginner eel for the home aquarium. They’re relatively small, peaceful, and easy to care for. Even though they’re easy to care for, it’s important to do your research before bringing one home. Make sure you have a proper setup and that you understand their diet and care requirements. If you do your homework, you’ll be rewarded with a happy and healthy eel that will bring a lot of joy to your life!

The fire eel is a stunning freshwater fish that can add a lot of personality to your tank. This species is relatively easy to care for, but there are a few things you need to know before you get one. In this guide, we’ll teach you everything you need to know about fire eel care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The fire eel (scientific name: Mastacembelus erythrotaenia) is a type of freshwater eel that’s native to Southeast Asia. In the wild, they can be found in countries such as Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam. These eels prefer slow-moving water with a lot of vegetation. This is something that’s common among many types of eel, as they like to have plenty of places to hide. Fire eels are some of the largest freshwater eels out there and can grow to be over 6 feet long! In the aquarium, however, they will typically only grow to be about 3-4 feet in length. Due to their size and aggression, fire eels are not recommended for beginner aquarists. They should only be kept by experienced fishkeepers who are comfortable dealing with large, aggressive fish. Appearance The first thing you’ll notice about the Fire eel is their long, snake-like body. These eels can get quite large, with some specimens reaching up to 6 feet in length! They have a slender build that’s covered in smooth scales. The coloration of this fish is where they get their name. The base color is black with bright red stripes running vertically down their body. The fins on this fish are small and don’t really stand out too much. The dorsal and anal fins are both short and close to the body. The caudal fin is forked and slightly longer than the other fins. The mouth of the Fire eel is located on the underside of their head. They have small eyes that are set far back on their head. Lifespan The average lifespan of a fire eel is 10 to 15 years. However, there have been reports of some fire eels living up to 20 years in captivity! As with any pet, the lifespan of your fire eel will be greatly impacted by the care it receives. Things like poor water quality, stress from bad tank mates, or a suboptimal diet can all shorten its lifespan significantly. Size The average size of a fire eel is about 24 inches, but they can grow up to 36 inches in length. These eels are a bit on the thin side, so they don’t need a ton of width to their tank. However, because of their length, they do need a tank that is at least 48 inches long. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for a fire eel is 75 gallons. If you’re looking for a smaller eel then you can get away with a 50 gallon tank but anything smaller than that is not recommended. Fire eels get big, up to 3 feet in some cases, and they need the extra space to swim and play. Water Parameters The fire eel is a freshwater fish that is native to Southeast Asia. They are found in slow-moving rivers and streams with a sandy or muddy bottom. In the wild, fire eels can grow to be over three feet long. However, in captivity, they are typically much smaller. The most important thing to remember when it comes to the fire eel’s water parameters is that they are very sensitive to changes. Even a small change can be stressful for them. For that reason, it’s important to test the water frequently and make changes gradually. Here are a few guidelines to help you create a healthy environment for your fire eel. Water temperature: 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.5 to 7.5 Water hardness: 5 to 15 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 2 to 12 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up an aquarium for a fire eel there are a few key things you need to take into consideration. First and foremost, these fish get BIG. We’re talking 3 feet long in some cases. This means you need a tank that can accommodate their size (100 gallons or more). The other main thing to consider is their diet. Fire eels are carnivores and need a diet that’s high in protein. This means you need to be prepared to feed them things like live fish, shrimp, or earthworms. Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s talk about what you can put in their tank to make it feel like home. The substrate in their tank can be anything from sand to gravel. Just avoid anything too big or sharp that they could hurt themselves on. When it comes to plants, you have a few options. Fire eels aren’t known to eat plants, but they will uproot them when they’re digging around. This means you need to pick something that can handle being moved around a bit (Java Fern or Hornwort are both good choices). As for decorations, rocks and driftwood are always a good option. Just make sure anything you add is securely anchored so it doesn’t get knocked over. Caves and tunnels are also a good idea since fire eels like to hide away. Just make sure any openings are big enough for them to fit through! Common Diseases Fire eels are a very hardy species of fish. They’re quite resistant to disease and usually don’t fall ill very easily. However, that doesn’t mean that they’re immune to every single disease out there. In fact, there are a few that seem to affect this species more than others. The most common one is definitely ich. This is a very contagious disease that can quickly spread through an entire tank. It’s characterized by white spots on the body and gills of your fish. If you notice this, it’s important to act fast. Ich can be treated, but it’s important to catch it early. Another disease that affects fire eels is hole-in-the-head disease. This is caused by poor water quality and the presence of activated carbon in the tank. It’s characterized by one or two pits/holes in the head of your fish. While it’s not usually fatal, it can be quite uncomfortable for your fish. The best way to prevent these diseases is by keeping the tank in great condition. A clean and well-maintained tank will go a long way in keeping your fire eel healthy and disease-free. Behavior & Temperament The fire eel is a nocturnal creature, so don’t be surprised if you don’t see it much during the day. It’ll be hiding in its cave, under a rock, or in some other dark place. At night, however, the fire eel will come out to feed. It’s an opportunistic carnivore, so it’ll eat just about anything it can find. The fire eel is a shy fish, so it’s important to provide it with plenty of hiding places. If it doesn’t feel safe, it won’t come out to eat and could waste away. The fire eel is a relatively peaceful fish, but it can be aggressive towards smaller fish. It’s also been known to eat smaller fish, so it’s not a good idea to keep them in the same tank. Tank Mates Fire eels are large, predatory fish. They’re not community fish by any means. In fact, they’re known for being one of the most aggressive eel species in the aquarium trade. The only time you can have more than one fire eel in a tank is if you have a very large tank and you add them at the same time. Even then, it’s not a guarantee that they’ll get along. Ideally, you should only keep one fire eel per tank. If you do decide to add more than one, make sure the tank is at least 200 gallons. As for compatible tank mates, there aren’t many. Fire eels are simply too aggressive to coexist with other fish. The only exception is if you have a very large tank and add fish that are too large to be considered food. Some of the only fish that might work are: Arowana Oscar Green Terror Pacu Peacock Bass Convict Cichlid Breeding Fire eels are difficult to breed in captivity. The main problem is that they need brackish water to spawn and most people don’t have the setup for that. If you’re determined to breed fire eels, you’ll need to set up a special tank. It should be at least 55 gallons and have a water heater to keep the temperature between 78 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The water should also be slightly brackish. You can achieve this by adding marine salt to the tank. Start with 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons and increase the amount gradually until you reach a salinity of around 1.005. Fire eels are also very sensitive to changes in water quality. Be sure to use a high-quality filter and do regular water changes. When the tank is set up and the water is at the correct temperature and salinity, you can add your fire eels. It’s best to start with a group of juveniles. They should be around 6 inches long. Place a few pieces of driftwood in the tank for the eels to hide in. You can also add live plants if you’d like. Just be sure that they can tolerate brackish water. Fire eels are nocturnal, so they’ll be most active at night. They’re also very shy, so don’t expect to see them out in the open very often. When the eels are ready to breed, the female will lay a large number of eggs. The male will then fertilize them. After that, the eggs will be attached to the underside of a piece of driftwood or a plant leaf. It takes about two weeks for the eggs to hatch. The fry are very small and need to be fed live foods. Baby brine shrimp are a good option. As they grow, you can gradually start to introduce frozen and pellet foods. Conclusion The Fire Eel is a great fish for intermediate to experienced fish keepers. They’re a bit more challenging to care for than some other fish, but they’re definitely worth the effort. Their unique appearance and personality make them a joy to own, and they’re definitely a conversation starter. If you’re up for the challenge, we say go for it! Just be sure to do your research first and be prepared for a bit of a learning curve.

The silver arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) is a stunning freshwater fish that is popular in the aquarium trade. They are native to the Amazon basin in South America, and can grow to be over 3 feet long! Despite their size, they are relatively easy to care for as long as you have a large enough tank and some experience with fish keeping. In this guide, we will cover everything you need to know about silver arowana care. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Silver arowanas (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) are a type of freshwater fish that’s native to the Amazon Basin. They can be found in countries like Brazil, Peru, Colombia, and Ecuador. Arowanas are unique fish because they have a very long and slender body that’s covered in large scales. They have a long dorsal fin that runs the length of their body and a forked tail. Silver arowanas can grow to be quite large, with some individuals reaching up to 4 feet in length! They are a predatory fish and in the wild, they primarily eat smaller fish, crustaceans, and insects. Due to their size and predatory nature, silver arowanas are not commonly kept as pets. However, they are sometimes kept in large aquariums or ponds. Appearance The most notable thing about the Silver Arowana is their size. These fish can grow to be over three feet long! They have a long and slender body that is covered in large, shiny scales. The color of these fish is a beautiful silver. However, it’s not a uniform color. The silver is broken up by a series of black stripes that run vertically down the length of the fish. The fins on the Silver Arowana are large and quite noticeable. The dorsal fin is tall and triangular. The anal fin is similar in shape but a bit smaller. The pectoral fins are long and thin. They start about two-thirds of the way back on the body and extend to the end of the fish. The caudal fin is forked and fairly large. The head of the Silver Arowana is long and narrow. They have large eyes that sit on the top of their head. Their mouths are quite large and filled with sharp teeth. Lifespan In the wild, a silver arowana’s lifespan averages around 12 years. But in captivity, where they’re better protected from predators and disease, they can live up to 20 years old. Of course, there are a lot of variables that come into play. The quality of the water, the food they eat, and how often they’re handled can all impact their lifespan. But if you take good care of them, you can expect your silver arowana to be around for a long time. Size Arowanas can grow to be quite large, with some specimens reaching up to 4 feet in length. The average size of a silver arowana, however, is between 2 and 3 feet. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for silver arowana is 125 gallons. If you want to keep more than one fish, you will need to increase the size of the tank accordingly. For each additional fish, you will need to add at least 50 gallons. As with most fish, the larger the tank, the better. Larger tanks provide more stability and allow for a greater margin of error. Water Parameters Silver Arowana are a tropical freshwater fish that come from slow moving rivers and still waters in South America. Because of this, they are used to water that is warm and has a neutral to slightly acidic pH. In the wild, Silver Arowana can grow to be over 3 feet long. But, in captivity, they typically only grow to be 2-3 feet in length. Silver Arowana are not a community fish. They are known to be aggressive and will eat anything that they can fit in their mouth. It’s best to keep them in a tank by themselves or with other fish that are too large to be considered food. When setting up a tank for a Silver Arowana, it’s important to keep the following water parameters in mind. Water Temperature: 75 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit pH Levels: 6.5 to 7.5 Water Hardness: 4 to 8 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4 to 8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Silver Arowanas are a bit of a unique fish when it comes to their habitat. They come from slow moving rivers and flooded forests in South America. This means that they’re used to a lot of cover and hiding spots. When setting up their tank you’ll want to replicate this as much as possible. We recommend using a dark substrate to start. This will help the fish feel more comfortable and make them less visible to predators. From there, you can add in some driftwood and plants. Silver Arowanas love to hide, so the more hiding spots you can provide the better. Caves and rocks can also be used, but make sure they’re big enough that the fish can’t get stuck. It’s also important to note that these fish can get pretty big. An adult Silver Arowana can reach lengths of over 4 feet, so you’ll need a tank that can accommodate them. Common Diseases The silver arowana is a freshwater fish that is native to South America. These fish are not immune to disease, and there are a few that are particularly common in this species. One of the most common diseases in silver arowanas is a condition called “hole in the head”. This is a disease that is caused by poor water quality and the presence of activated carbon in the tank. This disease presents itself as one or two pits/holes in the skin of your fish’s head. While it’s almost always curable (fixing your water quality and removing activated carbon is usually all you need to do), it will usually leave some scarring on your poor fish! The other disease that silver arowanas are prone to is ich. This is a very common disease that affects freshwater fish of all kinds, and silver arowanas are no exception. This disease presents itself as white spots on the body, fins, and gills of your fish. We won’t do a full ich treatment guide here (there are plenty of those online) but it’s something you need to take very seriously if it affects your fish. Behavior & Temperament Silver arowanas are beautiful, but they’re not the easiest fish to keep. They’re very active and require a lot of space to move around. A 55-gallon tank is the bare minimum, but we recommend going up to a 125-gallon tank if you can. The larger the better. You also need to be careful about the fish you put in with a silver arowana. These fish are known to be aggressive, and they will eat anything that fits in their mouth. That includes other fish, so be careful about who you put in the tank with them. Other than that, silver arowanas are relatively low-maintenance. They’re not picky eaters and will eat just about anything you put in the tank. They’re also not too fussy about water conditions, as long as the water is clean. Tank Mates The silver arowana is a beautiful freshwater fish that’s native to the Amazon basin. This fish is a member of the arowana family, which is a group of freshwater bony fish that are known for their long bodies and large scales. The silver arowana is a popular aquarium fish because of its iridescent silver coloration. This fish can grow to be quite large, so it’s important to choose tank mates that won’t be eaten or outcompeted for food. Some good silver arowana tank mates include: Plecostomus Tetras Angelfish Rainbowfish Gouramis Danios Knife fish Breeding Silver Arowanas are one of the most difficult fish to breed in captivity. In the wild, they lay their eggs in rivers and rely on the currents to carry them to safety. This is impossible to replicate in the home aquarium. For that reason, most Silver Arowanas that are bred in captivity are done so by commercial breeders. If you’re determined to breed them yourself, be prepared for a challenge. The first step is to set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 50 gallons and filled with soft, slightly acidic water. You’ll also need to add a lot of hiding places. Arowanas are nervous fish and need plenty of places to feel safe. Driftwood, caves, and plants are all good options. Once the tank is set up, add a pair of adult fish. It’s best to wait until they’re at least a year old. Older fish are more likely to spawn. You’ll need to do a lot of trial and error to get the water conditions just right. The temperature should be between 77 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.0. Water hardness should be between 5 and 10 dGH. When the water is just right, the female will lay her eggs on a flat surface. The male will then fertilize them. You’ll need to remove the adults at this point. They will eat the eggs if given the chance. Eggs usually hatch within two weeks. The fry are very small and need to be fed live foods. Baby brine shrimp and bloodworms are good options. As they grow, you can slowly introduce them to pellets and flakes. Conclusion The silver arowana is a beautiful and unique fish that is sure to make a statement in your aquarium. They are relatively easy to care for, but there are a few things you need to be aware of before you get one. Namely, their large size and potential for jumping make them a less than ideal choice for smaller tanks or homes with young children or pets. Other than that, we think they make an excellent addition to any freshwater aquarium!

The Asian arowana is a beautiful and unique freshwater fish that is popular in the aquarium trade. These fish are native to Southeast Asia and can be found in a variety of habitats, from slow-moving rivers to fast-flowing streams. Asian arowanas are a predatory fish and can grow to be quite large, so they are not suitable for every aquarium. However, if you have the space and the proper setup, they can make a great addition to your tank! This guide will teach you everything you need to know about Asian arowana care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The Asian Arowana (Scleropages formosus) is a freshwater fish that is native to Southeast Asia. It is considered a sacred animal in some cultures, and is one of the most popular fish in the aquarium trade. The Asian Arowana is a predatory fish, and in the wild it feeds on smaller fish, insects, and crustaceans. In the aquarium, it should be fed a diet of live food, such as small fish, shrimp, and crickets. Asian Arowanas are beautiful fish, and they are prized by fishkeepers for their iridescent scales and long, flowing fins. They are also one of the most expensive fish in the aquarium trade, with some individuals selling for tens of thousands of dollars. Asian Arowanas are difficult fish to keep, and they require a large tank with excellent filtration. They are also very sensitive to water quality, and even small changes in water parameters can lead to stress and illness. Appearance The Asian arowana is an impressive freshwater fish that is sure to turn heads. These fish have long bodies that can reach up to 3 feet in length! They have a unique diamond-shaped head that is quite large in comparison to their body. Their mouths are located on the underside of their head and extend all the way back to their eyes. This gives them a very “vacuum-like” appearance when they’re feeding. Asian arowanas have large scales that cover their entire body. These scales have a reflective quality to them that gives the fish a bit of a shimmer. The color of these fish can vary quite a bit depending on the specific subspecies. However, they are usually some shade of green or blue. Some varieties may have a bit of gold or silver in their scales as well. These fish have large dorsal and anal fins that taper off into a point. They also have a long and thin caudal peduncle. Their caudal fin is forked and very tall, making up a good portion of their length. Asian arowanas also have a pair of long barbels on their chin. These help them to “feel” around for food in murky water. Lifespan In the wild, Asian arowanas have an average lifespan of 15 to 20 years. In captivity, they can live even longer—up to 25 years—with the proper care. As with any animal, there are a number of factors that impact an Asian arowana’s lifespan. In the wild, predation and disease are the two biggest threats to these fish. In captivity, the biggest threats to Asian arowanas are poor water quality and stress. Stress can come from a number of sources, but the most common is incompatible tank mates. Size The Asian arowana is one of the largest freshwater aquarium fish, with some specimens reaching lengths of up to 3 feet! They are also one of the most expensive fish in the world, with some individuals selling for tens of thousands of dollars. Tank Tank Size The minimum tank size for an Asian arowana is 48 inches by 24 inches, which is equivalent to approximately 55 gallons. But we recommend going up to a 75-gallon tank if you can. The main reason you need a larger tank for an Asian arowana is because of their size. They can grow up to 3 feet in length, so they need the extra space to move around. Another reason is that they’re a messy fish. They produce a lot of waste, so you need a larger filter and more water changes to keep the water quality high. Water Parameters The Asian arowana is a tropical fish, so you’ll need to maintain warm water temperatures in the tank. They’re also native to slow-moving waters, so a moderate water flow is ideal. As for water parameters, these fish prefer slightly acidic water with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. Water hardness should be between 4 and 8 dGH. Alkalinity levels are not as critical, but aim for a range between 2 and 6 dKH. As far as filtration goes, you’ll need a canister filter that can move at least 10 times the volume of your tank every hour. An arowana tank should also have a protein skimmer to help remove organic waste before it has a chance to break down and pollute the water. What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the inside of an aquarium for an Asian arowana there are a few key things that you need to take into consideration. First and foremost, these fish need a lot of space to swim. They’re not the type of species that do well when cramped up. A good rule of thumb is to have at least 50 gallons of water for each arowana. The next thing you need to think about is the type of substrate you’re going to use. These fish love to dig so you need to make sure it’s something soft (sand is ideal). Next, you need to provide some hiding places for your fish. Asian arowanas are shy by nature and will appreciate some places to hide. Driftwood, caves, and plants are all suitable options. Finally, make sure the water in their tank is well-filtered and has a high flow rate. These fish are messy eaters and produce a lot of waste. Common Diseases The Asian Arowana is a notoriously difficult fish to keep healthy. They’re very sensitive to changes in water quality and their immune system isn’t the strongest. This makes them susceptible to a lot of different diseases and illnesses. The most common ones that you’ll need to watch out for are: -Hole in the head disease -Ich -Fungal infections -Bacterial infections These are just a few of the potential diseases that your Asian Arowana could face. It’s important to be on the lookout for anything out of the ordinary so you can act fast if necessary. The best way to keep your Asian Arowana healthy is to provide them with the best possible living conditions. This means clean water, a stable tank, and plenty of hiding places. If you can provide all of these things then you’ll be well on your way to keeping your Asian Arowana healthy and happy. Behavior & Temperament Although they are sometimes thought of as aggressive, Asian arowanas are actually very peaceful fish. They are shy by nature and will often hide behind plants or decorations in their tank. The one thing you need to be careful of with Asian arowanas is their long, sharp fins. These fins can easily rip the fins of other fish. So, it’s best to keep them in a tank by themselves or with other fish that have similar-sized fins. Asian arowanas are also known to be jumpers. They can easily jump out of an open tank, so it’s important to keep a lid on their tank at all times. One of the most interesting things about Asian arowanas is their ability to change color. They are born with a silver coloration. But, as they mature, they can start to develop other colors like gold, green, or blue. Tank Mates Asian Arowanas are not community fish. They’re too large and too aggressive to live peacefully with most other species. The truth is, there aren’t many fish that make good tank mates for Asian Arowanas. In fact, the list is pretty short. These are the only fish that can hold their own: OscarFish Green Terror Blood Parrot Jaguar Cichlid Convict Cichlid Acara Cichlid Anything else is likely to get eaten or bullied to death. It’s also worth noting that Asian Arowanas are known to eat smaller fish. For this reason, it’s best to avoid anything that’s on the small side. Breeding Asian arowanas are one of the most difficult fish to breed in captivity. They have very specific requirements and are very picky eaters. The first step is to find a healthy male and female. These fish can be aggressive, so it’s important that you find two that are compatible. Once you have your pair, put them in a breeding tank. The breeding tank should be at least 200 gallons. It should have a water heater to keep the temperature between 80 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit. The water should be very clean and well-filtered. Asian arowanas are surface feeders, so the tank should have plenty of floating plants. You can also add a piece of driftwood for them to perch on. The next step is to start feeding them live food. Feed them live insects, small fish, and earthworms. You can also offer them frozen foods, but they should be thawed and fed live. When the female is ready to spawn, she will lay a few hundred eggs. The eggs will float to the surface and attach themselves to the plants. The male will then fertilize them. Once the eggs hatch, the fry will feed on microscopic organisms in the water. You can supplement their diet with live baby brine shrimp. As they grow, you can start feeding them larger live foods. Once they’re big enough, you can move them to your main tank. Conclusion The Asian Arowana is a beautiful and unique fish that will definitely add some flair to your home aquarium. They’re not the easiest fish to take care of, but with a little bit of knowledge and commitment, you can definitely do it! We hope this guide has been helpful and that you now feel more prepared to take on the challenge of keeping an Asian Arowana. If you have any questions or want to share your own experiences, feel free to reach out to us on social media or directly through our website. We love hearing from other aquarists and are always happy to help!

Clown knife fish are an amazing freshwater fish that are perfect for beginner and experienced aquarium keepers alike. While they are a bit on the large size, they are very easy to care for and make a great addition to any community tank. Clown knife fish are also very unique looking, with their long bodies and distinctive color patterns. If you’re looking for a fish that is both beautiful and low-maintenance, the clown knife fish is the perfect choice! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The clown knifefish (Chitala ornata) is a freshwater fish that’s native to various parts of Southeast Asia. They are most commonly found in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam. This fish prefers slow-moving waters with a lot of vegetation. They are nocturnal creatures that use their electrosensory system to find food in the dark. Clown knifefish are popular aquarium fish because of their unique appearance. They are long and slender with a bright white stripe running down their center. These fish are also known to be fairly peaceful, which makes them a good choice for community tanks. Appearance The Clown Knifefish is easily one of the most interesting freshwater aquarium fish in terms of appearance. These electric fish have a long and slender body that tapers off at the end. They get their name from their long dorsal fins that start about two-thirds of the way back on their bodies. These fins can be almost as long as the rest of the fish! The Clown Knifefish also has a very long anal fin that starts just behind their ventral fins. Both of these fins are tall and thin with a ragged edge. Their caudal peduncle is very long and thin. This gives them an eel-like appearance that is further accentuated by their long pectoral fins. Clown Knifefish are brown or black in color with a white or cream-colored belly. They have a dark stripe that runs along their body from head to tail. This stripe is bordered by a thin line of white. Clown Knifefish are nocturnal predators that use their electric sense to find food in the dark. They are not very active during the day and will often hide among plants or in caves. Lifespan The average lifespan of clown knifefish is 5 to 8 years. However, there have been reports of these fish living up to 10 years in captivity. Clown knifefish are relatively long-lived for freshwater fish. This is likely due to the fact that they’re not often kept in the home aquarium. They’re more popular in public aquaria where they’re better cared for by professional staff. Size Clown knifefish can grow to be up to 18 inches long, though they are typically only around 12 inches long. They are a bit on the larger side when it comes to aquarium fish, so you’ll need to make sure you have enough space for them. These fish are also known to be jumpers, so a covered tank is necessary. Tank Tank Size The minimum tank size for clown knife fish is 100 gallons. If you want to keep more than one clown knife fish in the same tank, you will need at least 200 gallons for every additional fish. Clown knife fish are not recommended for beginner aquarists because of their large size and specialized care requirements. Water Parameters Clown knife fish are a bit more delicate than other freshwater aquarium fish. They’re native to slow-moving waters in South America, so they prefer similar conditions in captivity. You need to maintain stable water parameters at all times. These fish are very sensitive to sudden changes, even more so than other tropical fish. It’s best to use a quality canister filter and perform regular water changes to keep the water clean and free of toxins. Here are a few basic water parameters to help create a healthy clown knife fish environment. Water temperature: 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.5 to 7.5 Water hardness: 2 to 12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Clown Knifefish are a species that’s a bit more difficult to keep than some of the others on this list. They’re not recommended for beginners since they’re a bit more delicate and require a bit more attention. When it comes to setting up their tank, there are a few key things that you need to take into consideration. The first is the substrate. These fish love to burrow, so you’ll need something that they can easily do that in. Sand is the best choice since it’s soft and won’t damage their bodies. The second thing you need to think about is the plants. Clown Knifefish are known to eat plants, so you’ll need to be careful about what you put in their tank. We recommend using plants that are known to be safe for fish like Java Fern or Anubias. You should also include some hiding places for these fish. Driftwood, caves, and rocks all make great choices. Clown Knifefish are a bit shy so they’ll appreciate having some places to retreat to when they feel scared or threatened. Last but not least, you need to make sure the water in their tank is clean. These fish are very sensitive to water quality so you need to be on top of things. We recommend doing weekly water changes of 25-50%. Common Diseases The clown knifefish is a freshwater species that is relatively hardy and resistant to disease. However, this doesn’t mean that they can’t get sick. There are a few diseases that these fish are susceptible to. The most common one is ich. This is a parasite that will attach itself to your fish and cause white spots to form on their body. If left untreated, ich can be fatal. However, it is relatively easy to treat if you catch it early. Simply raise the temperature of the water in your tank and the ich will usually go away on its own. Another disease that these fish can get is hole-in-the-head disease. This is caused by poor water quality and the presence of activated carbon in the tank. It will present itself as one or two pits/holes in the skin of your clown knifefish’s head. While it’s almost always curable, it will usually leave some scarring on your poor fish! The best way to prevent these diseases is to simply keep the water in your tank clean and of high quality. A well-maintained tank will go a long way in keeping your clown knifefish healthy and disease-free. Behavior & Temperament Clown knifefish are very active fish that love to move around their tank. They are also very curious by nature, so they’ll often explore their surroundings and check out anything new that’s been added to the tank. Even though they’re curious, they’re not the type of fish to bother other creatures in the tank. They’re generally peaceful and get along well with other fish, as long as those fish aren’t too small. Clown knifefish have been known to eat small fish, so it’s best to avoid putting them in a tank with fish that are smaller than them. One thing to keep in mind is that clown knifefish are nocturnal, so they’ll be most active at night. During the day, they’ll often hide in the shadows or stay close to the bottom of the tank. Tank Mates Clown Knife fish are not community fish. In the wild, they are known to be loners and will often only associate with other clown knife fish when it is time to mate. For the most part, these fish are not aggressive but they have been known to eat smaller fish. They are also known to jump out of the tank so it is important to have a lid on their aquarium. Clown knife fish are best kept as the only fish in the tank or with other fish that are the same size or larger. Some compatible tank mates for clown knife fish include: Arowana Oscar Green Terror Jack Dempsey Plecostomus Pangasius Catfish Breeding Clown Knifefish are difficult to breed in captivity. They are mouthbrooders, which means that the female holds the eggs in her mouth until they hatch. This process makes it hard to protect the eggs and fry from getting eaten. Clown Knifefish are also known to be very shy and skittish. This makes it hard to keep them in a breeding tank without stressing them out. The best way to breed Clown Knifefish is to set up a large tank with plenty of hiding places. The tank should have a sandy bottom and some live plants. Keep the water quality high and the temperature between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. When ready, add a group of six to eight fish to the tank. The ratio of males to females doesn’t matter too much. Just make sure that there are more females than males. The female Clown Knifefish will lay her eggs in a secluded area of the tank. Once she has done that, the male will fertilize them. The female will then pick up the eggs in her mouth and hold them there until they hatch. This process takes about two weeks. Once the fry have hatched, they will be released into the water. The fry are very small and need to be fed live food. Baby brine shrimp are a good option. As they grow, you can start to add other foods to their diet. Crushed up flake food and freeze-dried bloodworms are a good option. Conclusion Clown knife fish are an amazing addition to any freshwater aquarium. They’re relatively easy to care for, are very active, and have unique personalities. They’re also a lot of fun to watch and will provide you with hours of enjoyment. We highly recommend them to anyone who’s looking for a new and exciting fish to add to their tank.

The African brown knifefish is a nocturnal freshwater fish that is native to Africa. They are a relatively new fish to the aquarium trade and are not commonly found in pet stores. If you are looking for a unique fish to add to your tank, the African brown knifefish might be the right fish for you! In this guide, we will go over everything you need to know about African brown knifefish care. We will discuss their diet, tank mates, tank size, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The African brown knifefish (scientific name: Notopterus notopterus) is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. It is found in various rivers and streams throughout the continent, primarily in the southern and eastern regions. The African brown knifefish is a nocturnal fish, meaning that it is most active at night. During the day, it will often hide among the plants and rocks in the water. This fish is a carnivore, and its diet consists mostly of small invertebrates. In the wild, it will also eat the occasional small fish. The African brown knifefish is a popular aquarium fish due to its unique appearance. It is long and slender, with a brown body and a white belly. It is also a relatively peaceful fish, making it a good choice for community tanks. Appearance The African brown knifefish is a long, thin fish that gets its name from its knife-like dorsal fin. This fin is tall and starts about two-thirds of the way back on the body. It extends almost to the end of the fish and is very thin. The rest of the body is brown in color with a few darker spots. The belly is a bit lighter in color. The pectoral fins are small and thin. The anal fin is also small and begins about halfway back on the body. The caudal fin is forked and symmetrical. The African brown knifefish has a long, thin body that is well-suited for swimming in fast-moving waters. Lifespan The average lifespan of an African brown knifefish is 5 to 7 years. As with most fish, there are a number of factors that will impact how long your knifefish will live. One of the biggest factors is the quality of the water they’re kept in. These fish are very sensitive to changes in water quality and will not do well in an environment that is not well-maintained. Another big factor is diet. African brown knifefish are carnivores and need a diet that is high in protein in order to thrive. If they’re not getting enough protein, they will not do well and their lifespan will be shortened. Size The African brown knifefish can grow to be up to 24 inches in length, but is more typically between 12 and 18 inches. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for an African brown knifefish is 50 gallons. If you want to keep more than one fish, you should add at least another 30 gallons per fish. African brown knifefish need a lot of space to move around and feel comfortable. They’re also very active swimmers and will often swim laps around the tank. If you don’t provide enough space they can become stressed which can lead to health problems. Water Parameters The African brown knifefish is a freshwater fish that is found in the rivers and streams of Africa. These fish are very tolerant of a wide range of water conditions, making them a good choice for beginner aquariums. However, it is still important to provide them with water that is clean and of good quality. Here are some general guidelines for the water parameters of the African brown knifefish: Water temperature: 74 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.8 to 7.8 Water hardness: 5 to 15 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank African brown knifefish are a species that is known to be a bit on the shy side. They’re not going to be the fish that’s constantly out and about in their tank. This means that you’re going to want to provide them with plenty of hiding spots. This can be accomplished in a number of ways, but we prefer using plants, driftwood, and rocks. If you go with plants, make sure they’re not too big or bushy. These fish like to have a lot of open space to swim around in so they might not appreciate being constantly surrounded by leaves. The substrate you use is also important. African brown knifefish are known to dig a bit so you want to make sure it’s not too sharp or abrasive. A soft, sandy substrate is ideal. Common Diseases African brown knifefish are relatively hardy fish, but they can still fall ill from time to time. The most common disease that these fish experience is ich, which is a very common freshwater parasite. This disease will present itself as white spots on the body of your fish. If left untreated, it can be quite serious (even fatal). The best way to prevent this disease is to maintain good water quality in your tank. African brown knifefish are also rather sensitive to changes in water parameters, so it’s important to keep a close eye on things. If you notice anything out of the ordinary, consult your vet and begin treatment immediately. The sooner you act, the better the chance is that your fish will recover. Behavior & Temperament The African brown knifefish is a nocturnal creature that is relatively shy and reclusive. During the day, they prefer to hide in caves or other dark places. At night, they become much more active and will come out to hunt for food. In the wild, these fish are known to be fairly aggressive. They will attack other fish and even smaller mammals if they feel threatened. However, in captivity, they are not typically aggressive unless they are provoked. When it comes to tank mates, the African brown knifefish is relatively peaceful. They can be kept with other fish, as long as those fish are not too small. If the other fish are too small, the knifefish may see them as food and try to eat them. Overall, the African brown knifefish is a relatively low-maintenance fish. They are not very demanding and can be easy to care for. Tank Mates African brown knifefish are best kept as the only member of their species in the tank. These fish are known to be cannibalistic, so it’s not a good idea to keep more than one together. As far as other tank mates go, there are a few options. Other fish species that occupy the mid to bottom part of the water column tend to work well. African brown knifefish are also shy fish. They prefer to stay hidden away, so tank mates that are more bold and out in the open might not be the best idea. Some potential tank mates for African brown knifefish include: Synodontis catfish Loricariidae catfish Tetras Rainbows Danios Barbs Breeding African brown knifefish are not the easiest fish to breed in captivity. They are notoriously difficult to sex, and their fry are delicate and difficult to raise. However, if you are up for the challenge, breeding African brown knifefish can be a rewarding experience. The first step is to sex your fish. This can be difficult, as there are no obvious external differences between males and females. The best way to sex them is by looking at their anal fins. Males will have a longer, thinner fin, while females will have a shorter, thicker fin. Once you have determined the sex of your fish, you will need to set up a breeding tank. The tank should be at least 30 gallons, and it should have a sandy bottom. The water should be clean and well-filtered, with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5. The temperature should be between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. You will also need to add some plants and hiding places to the tank. African brown knifefish like to lay their eggs in dense vegetation, so the more plants you have, the better. When everything is ready, you can add the fish to the tank. Start with two females for every male. The fish will start to pair off and establish territories. Once the pairs have been established, you can begin feeding them live foods. This will help to trigger spawning. When the fish are ready to spawn, the female will lay her eggs in the vegetation. The male will then fertilize them. After the eggs have been fertilized, the male will guard them until they hatch. This can take anywhere from two to three weeks. Once the fry have hatched, you can remove the adults from the tank. The fry will feed on microscopic organisms in the water. You can supplement their diet with live foods, such as baby brine shrimp. As the fry grow, you can slowly start to introduce them to dry foods. Once they are big enough, you can move them to a larger tank. Conclusion The African Brown Knifefish is a great addition to any tank. They’re hardy, easy to care for, and add a unique look to your aquarium. We think they’re a great fish for beginner aquarists and experienced fishkeepers alike. If you’re looking for a new fish to add to your tank, we highly recommend the African Brown Knifefish!

The aba aba is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. It is a member of the cichlid family and is closely related to the more well-known Tilapia. The aba aba is a peaceful fish that is not aggressive towards other tank mates. It is a good choice for a community tank. This fish is not commonly found in the aquarium trade, but it is becoming more popular. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The aba aba (scientific name: Trichogaster trichopterus) is a type of gourami that’s native to Africa. They are found in a wide variety of habitats but prefer slow-moving waters with plenty of vegetation. Aba aba are relatively small fish, only growing to be about 3-4 inches in length. They are very popular in the aquarium trade due to their peaceful nature and beautiful colors. These fish are omnivores and will eat a wide variety of foods. In the wild, their diet consists of insects, small crustaceans, and plant matter. In the aquarium, they can be fed a variety of pellets, flakes, and live/frozen foods. Due to their small size and peaceful nature, aba aba are compatible with a wide variety of tank mates. They make a great addition to any community tank! Appearance The Aba aba is a rather drab-looking fish when compared to some of the other freshwater fish on this list. They have a brownish-gray coloration that can vary depending on the water conditions and their diet. The fins on this fish are very similar in color to the body with a few exceptions. The dorsal and anal fins have a dark band that runs along the edge. The caudal fin is forked and has a dark band near the tip. The pectoral and ventral fins are a bit lighter in color and have a bit of a transparent look to them. This fish has a long and thin body with a slightly flattened head. The eyes on this species are very small in comparison to the rest of their head. Lifespan The average lifespan of Aba aba is 15 years. This is a pretty long time for a fish and it’s a testament to their hardiness. Of course, there are a number of factors that can impact their lifespan. Things like poor water quality, stress from bad tank mates, or a suboptimal diet can all shorten their lifespan. Size Aba aba cichlids can grow to be quite large, with some specimens reaching up to 18 inches in length. However, the average size for these fish is around 12 inches. Tank Tank Size The Aba Aba should be kept in an aquarium with a minimum volume of 180 litres. A single fish can be kept in an aquarium as small as 120 litres, but this is not recommended since they are such active swimmers. Water Parameters Aba aba are a tropical fish, so they need warm water and a higher water temperature than most other freshwater fish. They also prefer to live in slightly alkaline water. The ideal water parameters for Aba aba are: Water temperature: 77 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 7.0 to 8.0 Water hardness: 5 to 19 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 3-10 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Aba aba are one of the easier fish to care for when it comes to setting up their tank. They don’t have any specific requirements and are pretty adaptable to different conditions. That being said, there are still a few things you can do to make their habitat more comfortable and enriching. The first thing we recommend is using a soft substrate. This will help to prevent any cuts or scrapes if your fish happens to be a little too enthusiastic when it comes to digging. Next, we recommend including some plants and driftwood in their tank. These provide some much-needed enrichment for these fish and can help to make their habitat more visually appealing. Finally, we recommend using a filter that provides a moderate flow. Aba aba are known to be good swimmers and a little bit of water movement will help to keep them active. Common Diseases The Aba aba is a hardy fish that is relatively resistant to disease. However, like all animals, they are not immune to illness. The most common diseases that affect this species are parasites, infections, and fungal diseases. One of the most common parasites is ich. This is a very contagious disease that can quickly spread throughout your tank and kill all of your fish if left untreated. The most obvious sign of ich is the presence of white spots on the body of your fish. If you notice this, it’s important to act fast and begin treatment immediately. Other common diseases include bacterial infections, fungal infections, and velvet disease. Bacterial infections are usually the result of poor water quality, while fungal infections are often caused by overfeeding. Velvet disease is a bit more serious and is caused by a parasite that attacks the gills of your fish. If you notice any of these diseases in your fish, it’s important to consult a vet and begin treatment immediately. The sooner you act, the higher the chance is that your fish will recover. Of course, the best way to prevent these diseases is to simply maintain a clean and healthy environment for your fish. Providing clean water and a good diet will go a long way in keeping your fish healthy and disease-free. Behavior & Temperament The Aba aba is a peaceful fish that does well in community tanks. It is not an aggressive fish, and it will not bother other fish in the tank. The Aba aba is a bottom-dwelling fish, and it will often be seen swimming near the bottom of the tank. The Aba aba is a scavenger, and it will often eat algae and other plant matter. The Aba aba is not a picky eater, and it will often eat whatever food is available. The Aba aba is a hardy fish, and it is not easily stressed. The Aba aba is a good beginner fish, and it is a good choice for people who are new to keeping fish. Tank Mates Aba abas are not an aggressive species, but they are curious. This can sometimes lead to trouble if not paired with the right tank mates. The best tank mates for aba abas are other peaceful fish that occupy different areas of the water column. This will minimize territorial disputes and allow everyone to stay out of each other’s way. Some compatible species include: Neon Tetra Cardinal Tetra Rummy Nose Tetra Black Neon Tetra Ember Tetra Ghost Shrimp Cherry Shrimp Amano Shrimp Breeding The Aba aba is a mouth-brooding cichlid, which means that the female will carry the eggs and fry in her mouth until they are ready to be released into the world. These fish are not the easiest to breed in captivity, but it can be done with some patience and attention to detail. The first thing you need to do is set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 30 gallons and contain plenty of hiding places. Aba aba cichlids are quite shy, so they’ll need plenty of places to feel safe. Then, you need to adjust the water conditions. The pH should be between 7.5 and 8.5. The water hardness should be around 10-15 dGH. When everything is ready, add two males and two females to the tank. Aba aba cichlids are polygamous, so the males will mate with multiple females. Once the fish have acclimated to their new environment, you can start feeding them live foods. This will help to trigger spawning. When the female is ready to spawn, she’ll lay her eggs in a cave or crevice. The male will then fertilize them. Once the eggs are fertilized, the female will pick them up in her mouth and carry them around until they hatch. This process takes about two weeks. Once the fry have hatched, the female will continue to carry them around for another week or so. Then, she’ll release them into the tank. At this point, you can start feeding the fry live foods. Baby brine shrimp is a good option. You can also give them crushed-up flake food. As the fry grow, you can slowly introduce them to larger foods. Conclusion The Aba Aba is a great fish for beginners and experienced aquarists alike. They’re easy to care for and get along well with other fish. They’re also a great addition to a community tank because of their peaceful nature. Overall, we think the Aba Aba is a great fish and we highly recommend them!

The African butterflyfish is a beautiful and unique freshwater fish that is native to Africa. This fish is not commonly found in the pet trade, but it is becoming more popular as a aquarium fish. If you are thinking about getting an African butterflyfish, there are a few things you need to know about their care. In this guide, we will teach you everything you need to know about African butterflyfish care. We will cover topics such as diet, tank mates, tank size, and more. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The African butterflyfish (scientific name: Pantodon buchholzi) is a type of freshwater fish that’s native to various parts of Africa. They are most commonly found in the Congo Basin, which covers a large area in the middle of the continent. They prefer slow-moving waters with a lot of vegetation and hiding places. This is something that’s common to many types of freshwater fish, but it’s especially important for African butterflyfish since they are very timid by nature. Due to their unique appearance, African butterflyfish are a popular choice for aquariums. They are also relatively easy to care for, which makes them a good option for beginner fishkeepers. African butterflyfish are very peaceful by nature and get along well with other tank mates. They are also not known to be fin nippers, which is something that can be a problem with other types of fish. Appearance The African butterflyfish is one of those fish that is immediately recognizable thanks to their very unique shape. The body is long and slender with a pointed nose and a forked tail. This fish is laterally compressed, meaning that it is flatter than most other fish. This body shape helps them to maneuver quickly and easily in the water. They have very large eyes that sit high up on their head. This gives them excellent vision and helps them to spot prey from a distance. The dorsal and anal fins are both long and thin. The pelvic fins are also quite long and they sit just behind the gill openings. The pectoral fins are shorter than the pelvic fins, but they are still quite long in comparison to most other fish. The caudal fin is deeply forked and it has a beautiful yellow margin. The body of the African butterflyfish is mostly black in color. There is a yellow band that runs along the sides of the fish and there is also a yellow spot on the dorsal fin. The undersides of the fish are mostly white. Lifespan The average lifespan of an African butterflyfish is around 3 years. However, there are a number of factors that can impact their life expectancy. For starters, if these fish haven’t reproduced then their lifespan will usually be on the higher side of this range. That process can really take a toll on the fish. The general level of care they receive obviously matters a great deal as well. Even though these are very hardy fish, they’ll obviously live longer in optimal conditions. Size The maximum size of the African butterflyfish is about 4 inches. Tank Tank Size The minimum tank size for an African butterflyfish is 30 gallons, but we recommend going up to a 50 gallon tank if you can. The extra space will give the fish room to swim and explore, and it will also help to keep the water quality high. If you want to keep more than one African butterflyfish in the same tank, you’ll need to add at least another 30 gallons for each fish. Water Parameters The African butterflyfish is a freshwater species that is found in the rivers of Africa. In the wild, they prefer slow-moving waters with plenty of vegetation. To recreate this environment in your aquarium, you’ll need to maintain the following water parameters. Water temperature: 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.8 to 7.6 Water hardness: 2 to 12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank The African butterflyfish is a beautiful and relatively peaceful species that does well in both freshwater and brackish tanks. When it comes to setting up their habitat, you have a few different options. A lot of aquarists prefer to go with a planted tank for their African butterflyfish. These fish love to swim around in the vegetation and it provides them with a place to hide if needed. If you do go with plants, we recommend using species that are known to be tough (like Java Fern or Anubias). These will be able to handle the occasional nibble and won’t uproot easily. Another option is to go with a more traditional setup that includes rocks and driftwood. This can still provide hiding places for your fish while also giving the inside of the tank a bit more character. The substrate you choose is up to you, but we recommend something that’s on the softer side. These fish like to dig and a sharp substrate can lead to cuts. Common Diseases African butterflyfish are pretty hardy fish and don’t seem to fall ill very often. However, when they do get sick it’s usually because of one of two things: ich or bacterial infection. Ich is a very common freshwater fish disease that is caused by a parasites. It’s pretty easy to spot as it causes white spots to form on the body of your fish. If you think your fish might have ich, the best thing to do is to consult a vet or someone with more experience. There are a lot of different ways to treat ich, and the wrong treatment could do more harm than good. Bacterial infection is another common illness in African butterflyfish. This is usually caused by poor water quality and can lead to a lot of different symptoms. Some of the most common include: red lesions, fraying fins, and a loss of appetite. If you think your fish might have a bacterial infection, the best thing to do is to consult a vet. They will be able to prescribe the right medication to help your fish recover. Behavior & Temperament The African butterflyfish is a beautiful and unique fish that is native to the freshwaters of Africa. These fish are peaceful and relatively easy to care for, making them a popular choice for aquarists of all levels of experience. One of the most notable things about the African butterflyfish is their appearance. They have a long, slender body that is adorned with black and white stripes. Their fins are also striped, and they have a large mouth that is perfect for eating small insects and crustaceans. In the wild, African butterflyfish are found in slow-moving rivers and streams. They typically prefer to stay in shallower waters where they can find plenty of food to eat. In the aquarium, African butterflyfish are relatively peaceful. They can be kept with other peaceful fish, as long as those fish are not too small. These fish are not aggressive, but they may try to eat smaller fish if they are given the opportunity. African butterflyfish are also known to be jumpers, so it is important to have a tight-fitting lid on your aquarium to prevent them from escaping. Tank Mates The best tank mates for African butterflyfish are other peaceful, small fish that occupy different levels of the water column. Since African butterflyfish are surface dwellers, they do best with fish that stay near the bottom or in the middle of the tank. Some good African butterflyfish tank mates include: Neon Tetras Cardinal Tetras Ghost Shrimp Guppies Platies Mollies Breeding The African butterflyfish is one of the more challenging species to breed in captivity. They’re not impossible, but it does take some skill and knowledge. The first thing you need to do is set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 20 gallons and contain plenty of live plants. Driftwood is also a good idea. Keep the water temperature between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The next step is to find a pair of African butterflyfish. These fish are notoriously difficult to pair off, so it may take some time. Once you have a pair, put them in the breeding tank. Then, it’s a waiting game. These fish typically spawn in the morning, so check the tank around that time. You’ll know they’re successful when you see the eggs floating on the surface of the water. The eggs will hatch in about 24 hours. At that point, you can remove the adults and start feeding the fry live foods. Baby brine shrimp is a good option. As they grow, you can slowly start introducing them to flake food. Conclusion The African butterflyfish is a beautiful and unique fish that can make a great addition to your aquarium. They’re not the easiest fish to care for, but with a little knowledge and commitment, you can be successful. We hope this guide has helped you learn a little bit more about African butterflyfish and that you’ll be able to use this information to make a decision about whether or not they’re the right fish for you.

Peters’ elephant nose is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. It is a member of the family Mormyridae, which contains over 200 species of fish. This fish is named for its long, trunk-like nose, which is used to sniff out food and detect electrical fields. Peters’ elephant nose is a popular fish in the aquarium trade, and is known for its unique appearance and behavior. This fish is not suitable for beginners, as it requires special care and a large tank. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Peters’ elephant nose (Gnathonemus petersii) is a freshwater fish that is native to parts of West and Central Africa. It is most commonly found in the Niger and Congo river basins. This fish prefers slow-moving waters with a lot of vegetation. This is because they are primarily bottom-dwellers that use the plants to help them hide from predators. Peters’ elephant nose is a nocturnal fish, meaning that it is most active at night. During the day, they will often bury themselves in the sand or mud at the bottom of the river to stay hidden. This fish gets its name from its long “nose” which is actually an extension of its upper lip. This is used as a sensory organ to help the fish find food in the dark waters where it lives. Peters’ elephant nose is a popular aquarium fish due to its unique appearance and peaceful nature. Appearance The Peters’ elephant nose is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. As the name suggests, this fish has a long trunk-like nose. This trunk is actually an extension of the fish’s upper lip. The Peters’ elephant nose uses this trunk to sniff out food and to communicate with other members of its species. This fish is brown or black in color, with a white belly. The Peters’ elephant nose has large eyes and long fins. The Peters’ elephant nose is a peaceful fish that should be kept with other peaceful fish. This fish does best in an aquarium that has plenty of hiding places. Lifespan Peters’ elephant nose fish have a lifespan of around 5 to 10 years. As with most fish, their lifespan will depend on the quality of care they receive. Good water quality, a nutritious diet, and appropriate tank mates are all important factors in ensuring a long and healthy life for your elephant nose fish. Size Peters’ elephant nose grow to be about 6-8 inches in length. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for a single Peters’ elephant nose fish is 30 gallons. If you want to keep more than one fish, you should add at least another 20 gallons for each additional fish. Peters’ elephant nose fish are semi-aggressive and can be territorial, so it’s important to provide them with enough space to avoid conflict. They also need a tank with plenty of hiding places and plenty of open space to swim. Water Parameters Peters’ elephant nose are native to freshwaters in Africa. In the wild, they inhabit rivers, lakes, and flooded forests. Peters’ elephant nose are a tropical fish and prefer warm water. They also prefer slightly alkaline water with a pH of 7.0-8.0. Water hardness is not as critical, but they prefer softer water with a dGH of 5-12. One of the most important things to remember with Peters’ elephant nose is that they are very sensitive to changes in water parameters. Sudden changes can cause stress and illness. It’s best to slowly acclimate them to new water conditions. This can be done by slowly adding water from the new tank to their current tank over the course of an hour. Water Temperature: 72-82 degrees Fahrenheit pH Levels: 7.0-8.0 Water Hardness: 5-12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the perfect home for your Peters’ elephant nose, there are a few key things to keep in mind. First, these fish come from murky waters in the wild. This means that you don’t need to have crystal clear water in their tank. In fact, it’s actually better if you don’t since it will help reduce stress levels. Next, the substrate should be soft and sandy. This will protect their sensitive noses from getting scratched up. Last, you’ll want to include some plants and driftwood in their tank. This will provide them with places to hide and feel safe. Java moss is a great choice since it can withstand being nibbled on. Common Diseases The Peters’ elephant nose is a robust and hardy fish, but that doesn’t mean they’re immune to illness. There are a few diseases that can affect this species, but the most common one is definitely ich. Ich is a very common parasite that can become quite serious if it’s not dealt with. The most obvious sign of this disease is the series of white spots that will begin to cover the body of your fish. There are plenty of other potential diseases that can affect this species as well, but they’re not as common. Another thing to look out for is infection from cuts. The most common cause of this is keeping your elephant nose in a tank with a rough substrate (or aggressive species that want to fight). In general, the best way to prevent these fish from getting sick is to maintain the quality of the water in their tank. A tank with clean and stable water conditions always leads to healthier fish who are more resistant to disease. Behavior & Temperament Peters’ elephant nose fish are gentle giants. They are some of the largest freshwater aquarium fish, and they have a reputation for being very docile. Peters’ elephant nose fish are very curious by nature. They are constantly exploring their surroundings and will often approach humans out of curiosity. They are not afraid of people, and they seem to enjoy being around us. Peters’ elephant nose fish are also very peaceful fish. They get along well with other fish, and they rarely cause any problems. The only time they may become aggressive is if they feel threatened. Tank Mates Peters’ elephant nose are a unique and interesting species that can make a great addition to any community tank. These fish are not aggressive and get along well with most other species. They are also not picky eaters, so you won’t have to worry about them not getting enough to eat. Peters’ elephant nose are a peaceful species that do best in a tank with other peaceful fish. Some good tank mates for Peters’ elephant nose include: Neon Tetras Guppies Platies Mollies Swordtails Corydoras Catfish Breeding Peters’ elephant nose are livebearers, so the females will give birth to live young. Breeding them is easy, but it does require a little bit of special care. To start, you’ll need to set up a breeding tank. It should be at least 20 gallons in size and filled with soft, slightly acidic water. Add some live plants and a few hiding places. Driftwood is a good option. When ready, add two females for every male. Keep an eye on the females. When they start to swell with eggs, it’s time to remove the males. The females will give birth to around 20 young at a time. They are born fully-formed and able to swim and feed on their own. Once the fry are born, you can feed them live foods like baby brine shrimp or microworms. You can also give them crushed-up flake food. Keep the fry in the breeding tank until they are big enough to be moved to the main tank. Conclusion The Peters’ elephant nose is a great fish for beginner aquarists. They are easy to care for and are very peaceful fish. They are also very active fish and will add some excitement to your tank. If you are looking for a challenge, the Peters’ elephant nose is not the fish for you. But if you are looking for a low maintenance fish that is still fun to watch, then the Peters’ elephant nose is a great choice.

The blunt-jawed elephantnose is an awesome and unique freshwater fish that is sure to turn heads. This fish is relatively easy to care for, but there are a few things you need to know before you get one. In this guide, we’ll teach you everything you need to know about blunt-jawed elephantnose care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The blunt-jawed elephantnose (scientific name: Gnathonemus petersii) is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. It is found in countries such as Angola, Benin, Cameroon, the Congo, Ivory Coast, Gabon, Ghana, Guinea, Liberia, Nigeria, Sierra Leone, and Togo. This fish prefers slow-moving waters with a lot of vegetation. They are most commonly found in swampy areas and marshes. The blunt-jawed elephantnose is a nocturnal fish, so it is most active at night. During the day, it will hide among the plants in the water. This fish gets its name from its long snout, which is used to help it find food. The blunt-jawed elephantnose is a bottom-dweller and feeds on small invertebrates. Appearance The first thing you’ll notice about this freshwater fish is the long protrusion coming out of their head. This is actually their snout, and it’s filled with sensing organs that help them find food in the dark waters they come from. This snout is incredibly long, and it’s slightly transparent. It’s also worth noting that males tend to have longer snouts than females. The body of the Blunt-jawed elephantnose is very long and eel-like. They have a dorsal fin that runs almost the entire length of their body, and it’s slightly transparent as well. The anal fin is much shorter, and it’s located closer to the tail. The tail itself is very long and thin, and it tapers off to a point. This fish is mostly a dark gray color, but they can have a brown or black hue as well. The underside is usually a bit lighter than the rest of the body. The fins on this fish are mostly clear, but they can have a yellow or brown tint as well. Lifespan The average lifespan of blunt-jawed elephantnose is around 10 years. This is rather impressive and means that if you take good care of them, they’ll be around for quite a while! Just like any fish, the lifespan of your blunt-jawed elephantnose can change significantly based on how they are treated. Things like poor water quality, stress from bad tank mates, or a suboptimal diet can drastically shorten their lifespan. Size The average size for a Blunt-jawed elephantnose is between 5 and 6 inches, but some have been known to grow up to 8 inches in captivity. These fish are relatively small, so they don’t need a ton of space to swim around. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for elephantnose fish is 50 gallons. This is for a single fish but, like many freshwater fish, they do best in schools so you may want to consider a larger tank if you plan on keeping a group. Water Parameters The best water parameters for elephantnose fish are those that closely mimic their natural habitat. That includes a warm temperature, slightly acidic water, and plenty of oxygenation. This is a delicate fish, so it’s important to make sure the water parameters are as close to perfect as possible. Any deviation can lead to stress and eventually health problems. Here are a few basic parameters to help create a healthy elephantnose environment. Water temperature: 75 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 5.8 to 7.0 Water hardness: 2 to 12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the inside of their tank you have a few different options. You can go with a classic gravel substrate, or something a little more unique like sand. These fish love to root around in the substrate so it’s important to choose something that won’t hurt them. Plants are always a nice addition to any aquarium, but we recommend avoiding anything that’s too delicate. These fish love to nibble on plants, so something like hornwort or water wisteria would be a good choice. Rocks, driftwood, and caves are all good options as well. Just make sure that everything is firmly in place. These fish are known to dig and root around, so loose objects can easily be knocked over. One final thing to mention is that these fish are known to produce a lot of waste. As a result, we recommend using a filter with high flow rates to help keep the water clean. Common Diseases These fish are actually quite hardy and don’t often get sick. However, there are a few diseases that you should be aware of if you own one of these fish. The most common disease that affects blunt-jawed elephantnoses is parasites. These can be external (like ich) or internal (like worms). The good news is that most parasites are relatively easy to treat. You can usually get rid of them with a course of medication from your vet. The other disease that you need to be aware of is Hole-in-the-Head disease. This is a serious condition that can be fatal if it’s not treated quickly. Hole-in-the-Head disease is caused by poor water quality and the presence of activated carbon in the tank. The disease will present itself as one or two pits/holes in the skin of your elephantnose’s head. If you notice this, it’s important to take immediate action. Begin treatment by fixing the water quality in your tank and removing the activated carbon. If you act quickly, there’s a good chance your fish will make a full recovery. Behavior & Temperament The Blunt-jawed elephantnose is a nocturnal fish, so don’t expect to see much activity during the day. When the lights are off, however, they become much more active. This is when they’ll come out to scavenge for food. These fish are relatively peaceful and have a calm temperament. They’re not known to be aggressive, but they can be skittish around other fish. As a result, it’s best to keep them in a tank with fish that are similar in size. The Blunt-jawed elephantnose is a unique fish because it uses electrical fields to help it find food and communicate with other elephantnose fish. When it’s looking for food, it will generate an electrical field and “taste” the water to see if there are any edible particles present. If you’re keeping these fish in a tank, you might notice them generate an electrical field from time to time. This is perfectly normal behavior and nothing to be concerned about. Tank Mates Blunt-jawed elephantnose are a peaceful and easygoing species. They’re not known for being aggressive and will do well with most community fish. The only time you might have trouble is if you add fish that are too small. These elephantnose are known to eat small fish and invertebrates. Other than that, you have a lot of freedom when it comes to adding tank mates. These fish come from Africa, so they do best in warm water. Some good tank mates for blunt-jawed elephantnose include: African Cichlids Synodontis Catfish Clown Loach Tetras Guppies Mollies Platies Breeding The breeding process for the blunt-jawed elephantnose is a bit more difficult and requires more attention than some other species. The first step is to identify the males and females. The males are typically larger with longer fins. The easiest way to tell, however, is by their tusks. Males have longer and more prominent tusks. Once you have your pair, you’ll need to set up a breeding tank. The tank should be at least 30 gallons and have plenty of hiding places. Driftwood and plants are a must. You’ll also need to pay attention to the water conditions. The pH should be around 6.5 and the temperature should be between 77 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. When everything is ready, you can add the pair to the tank. The female will lay her eggs in a cave or hiding place. The male will then fertilize them. After about a week, the eggs will hatch. The fry will be very small, so you’ll need to feed them live foods. Baby brine shrimp or microworms are a good choice. As they grow, you can start to add other foods to their diet. They should be ready to join the adults in your main tank within a few months. Conclusion Overall, the Blunt-jawed elephantnose is a great fish for the beginner to experienced aquarium owner. They’re relatively easy to care for and make a great addition to any community tank. While they may not be the most exciting fish in the world, their unique look and gentle personality make them a great choice for anyone looking for a new fish. We hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and that it’s helped you learn a little more about the Blunt-jawed elephantnose. As always, if you have any questions or comments, feel free to reach out to us on social media or through our website. We’re always happy to help!

The reedfish is an amazing and unique freshwater fish that is perfect for the beginner aquarium. This fish is very easy to care for and is very tolerant of a wide range of water conditions. The reedfish is also a very peaceful fish and will do well with a wide variety of tank mates. In this guide, we will go over everything you need to know about reedfish care. We will cover topics such as tank size, diet, tank mates, and more. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Reedfish (scientific name: Erpetoichthys calabaricus) are a type of fish that’s native to the Atlantic coast of Africa. They are most commonly found in the Niger River delta but have also been spotted in the Cuanza and Zambezi River basins. Reedfish prefer murky and shallow waters that are packed full of vegetation. This is something that’s common to a lot of other fish species that are native to Africa. In the wild, these fish are opportunistic predators. This means that they will eat just about anything they can get their mouths on. This includes other fish, invertebrates, and even smaller mammals if given the chance. Reedfish are a popular choice for aquariums because of their unusual appearance. They are often compared to eels or snakes because of their long, slender bodies. Appearance Reedfish are a very unique and interesting species. The first thing you’ll notice about them is their long, snake-like body. They have a very thin build that can grow up to 3 feet in length! Their head is small in comparison to the rest of their body and it tapers down to a point. They have small eyes that are set far back on their head. Reedfish also have a very small mouth that’s located at the tip of their snout. They are covered in small scales that have a very rough texture. These scales provide decent protection against predators. Reedfish have a long, thin dorsal fin that runs the length of their body. They also have a small anal fin and a forked caudal fin. Their coloration is a brown or tan on their back that fades to a white on their belly. They have a dark stripe that runs along their sides. Reedfish are a very unique and interesting species that would make a great addition to any aquarium! Lifespan Reedfish have an average lifespan of 10 years, but can live up to 20 years with proper care. Reedfish are a very hardy species, but as with all fish, their lifespan can be impacted by factors like water quality and diet. If you provide them with a good environment and care for them properly, they can easily live for 10 years or more. Size Reedfish can grow to be up to 24 inches long, making them one of the larger aquarium fish on this list. However, they typically only grow to be about 12 to 16 inches long in captivity. This is still a good size fish, so you’ll need to provide them with a tank that can accommodate their adult size. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for a Reedfish is at least 125 gallons. This fish can get quite large, up to three feet in length, so it’s important to provide them with enough room to grow. A 125 gallon tank is the minimum size we recommend but if you have the space, a larger tank will be much appreciated by your fish. Water Parameters The reedfish is a tropical freshwater species that is found in slow-moving rivers and streams in Africa. In the wild, they often inhabit areas with a lot of vegetation. Reedfish are a relatively new addition to the aquarium trade. They’re not commonly seen in stores, but they are becoming more popular among hobbyists. If you’re interested in keeping reedfish, it’s important to provide them with water conditions that mimic their natural habitat. Reedfish prefer water that is warm and slightly acidic. They also need plenty of hiding places and a soft substrate. Here are a few basic water parameters to help create a healthy environment for your reedfish. Water temperature: 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.5 to 7.5 Water hardness: 2 to 12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the inside of an aquarium for reedfish, there are a few things you’ll need to take into consideration. The first is that these fish like to have a lot of plants in their tank. This not only provides them with some shelter and hiding places, but it also helps to keep the water quality high. We recommend including a variety of different plants in their habitat. This will not only make it more aesthetically pleasing but also give them more options when it comes to finding a place to hide. The second thing to keep in mind is that reedfish like to have a lot of hiding places. This can be in the form of plants, rocks, or even driftwood. anything that provides them with a place to feel safe is going to be a good addition to their tank. The third thing to consider is the substrate. These fish like to have a soft substrate in their tank. This can be anything from sand to gravel. Just make sure that it’s not too sharp or abrasive. Finally, we recommend including a filter in their habitat. Reedfish are known to be very messy eaters and produce a lot of waste. A filter will help to keep the water quality high and make things a lot easier for you in the long run. Common Diseases Reedfish are a species of freshwater fish that are native to Africa. They’re not a very common fish in the aquarium trade, but they’re starting to become more popular. These fish are pretty hardy and don’t usually get sick. However, like all fish, they can still fall ill if the conditions in their tank are not ideal. The most common disease that affects Reedfish is ich. This is a parasites that affects freshwater fish and can be quite serious if it’s not treated. The most obvious symptom of ich is the presence of white spots on the body of the fish. If you notice this, it’s important to take action immediately. There are a number of other potential diseases that could affect your Reedfish, but they’re not as common. Some of these include infections, parasites, and poor water conditions. As always, the best way to prevent your fish from getting sick is to maintain a clean and stable tank. This will create an environment that is less conducive to disease and will help your fish stay healthy. Behavior & Temperament The reedfish is a peaceful and relatively shy creature. It’s not uncommon for this fish to spend most of its time hiding in the plants or other decorations of its aquarium. Reedfish are nocturnal, so they’re more active at night. This is when they’ll come out to feed. During the day, they’ll often remain hidden and rest. Although the reedfish is a shy creature, it’s not uncommon for it to become accustomed to its owner and allow itself to be hand-fed. This is a relatively slow process, so don’t expect it to happen overnight. Reedfish are peaceful fish that do well in community tanks. They won’t bother other fish and can even coexist with fish that are known to be nippers. Tank Mates Reedfish are a unique species that can be a bit challenging to keep. They’re not super common in the trade, so your options for tank mates might be limited. But don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Reedfish are a freshwater species that come from Africa. In the wild, they occupy a narrow range of habitats near fast-moving water. This is important to keep in mind when choosing their tank mates. First and foremost, the fish you add to the tank should be peaceful. Reedfish are not aggressive, but they are skittish. The last thing you want is a tank mate that’s constantly chasing them around. Secondly, the fish should be able to handle similar water conditions. Reedfish prefer water that’s on the warm side with plenty of dissolved oxygen. With that in mind, here are some compatible species: Congo Tetra Zebra Danio White Cloud Mountain Minnow Ghost Shrimp Neon Tetra Cardinal Tetra Guppy Platy Breeding Reedfish breed in much the same way as other fish. They lay eggs which the male then fertilizes. The female will lay anywhere from 500 to 1,000 eggs at a time. The male will stay close by to protect them until they hatch. It can take anywhere from 24 to 36 hours for the eggs to hatch. Once they do, the fry are on their own. They will hide among the plants in the tank and feed on microscopic organisms. As they grow, you can start to feed them baby brine shrimp and other small foods. Reedfish are not the easiest fish to breed in captivity. However, it can be done with some patience and a bit of luck. Conclusion The reedfish is an awesome fish that is often overlooked by aquarists. They’re a great addition to any tank, but especially one that contains other peaceful fish. Their unique appearance is sure to turn some heads, and they’re relatively easy to care for as long as you’re aware of their specific needs. We highly recommend the reedfish for anyone looking for a new and interesting addition to their tank!

The Saddled Bichir is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. It is a popular fish in the aquarium trade due to its unique appearance and peaceful nature. This fish is a member of the bichir family, which is a group of ancient fishes that are often referred to as “living fossils”. The Saddled Bichir is a nocturnal fish, meaning that it is most active at night. During the day, it will often hide among the plants or rocks in the aquarium. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about Saddled Bichir care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Saddled bichirs (scientific name: Polypterus endlicheri) are a type of freshwater fish that’s native to Africa. They’re most commonly found in the Congo River basin but have also been spotted in other rivers throughout the region. These fish are unique in that they have both lungs and gills, which allows them to survive in low-oxygen environments. This is one of the reasons why they’re able to live in murky rivers where other fish would quickly perish. Saddled bichirs are nocturnal predators that hunt for smaller fish, insects, and crustaceans. In the wild, they can grow to be quite large, but in captivity, they usually max out at around 12 inches. Due to their unique appearance and hunting habits, saddled bichirs are a popular choice for many aquarium enthusiasts. Appearance Saddled bichirs are an eel-like freshwater fish that are unique in a number of ways. The first thing you’ll notice about them is their strange “duck-billed” mouth. This is actually a sensory organ that helps them find food in the dark waters they come from. They have a long snake-like body that can grow up to three feet in length! Along their body, you’ll find a series of dorsal fins. The first set is small and near their head while the second set is much larger and starts about halfway down their body. They have a long caudal fin that extends all the way to the end of their bodies. This fin is forked and slightly transparent. The coloration of saddled bichirs can vary quite a bit. They can be brown, tan, green, or even black. The one thing that is consistent is the series of dark spots that run along their body. These spots are usually black or dark brown. Lifespan In the wild, Saddled bichirs have a lifespan of around 10 years. However, in captivity, they often only live for 5 to 7 years. One of the biggest factors impacting their lifespan is the quality of care they receive. Suboptimal water conditions, for example, can lead to a shortened lifespan. It’s also worth noting that these fish are relatively fragile when they’re young. So, even if you take great care of them, their lifespan might still be on the shorter side. Size Saddled bichir can reach a length of about 24 inches, but most only grow to be about 18 inches long. These fish are some of the larger freshwater aquarium fish available. They need a lot of space to swim and hide, so a tank that is at least 50 gallons is recommended. Tank Tank Size The minimum tank size for a Saddled Bichir is 30 gallons. If you’re looking for a smaller Bichir then you may want to consider the Dwarf or the Pearl. While a 30 gallon tank is the minimum, we recommend going up to a 55 gallon tank if you can. This will give your fish plenty of room to swim and explore as well as providing you with some room to add other fish or decorations. Water Parameters The saddled bichir is a tropical fish that requires warm water to thrive. Water temperatures in the 75-81 degree Fahrenheit range are ideal. This fish is also sensitive to changes in water parameters. Sudden or drastic changes can cause stress and even death. To maintain stable water conditions, it’s best to use a quality aquarium heater and thermometer. Test the water frequently and do small, gradual water changes as needed. The saddled bichir is also a bit more sensitive to water hardness than some other fish. Water in the soft to medium range is best. A general guideline is 5-15 dGH. Water Temperature: 75-81 degrees Fahrenheit pH Levels: 6.5-7.5 Water Hardness: 5-15 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank The first thing you need to do is figure out what substrate you want to use. These fish come from a variety of habitats so there isn’t one perfect answer. A good rule of thumb is to use something that won’t be too abrasive. They have sensitive skin so you don’t want anything that will scratch them up. Smooth gravel or sand is always a safe bet. If you want to get a little fancier you can use something like crushed coral or even small pebbles. The next thing you need to consider is what kind of plants you want to put in their tank. These fish are known to uproot plants so you’ll need to be strategic about it. We recommend going with hardy plants that are tough to kill. Things like Java Fern or Anubias are always a good choice. You can also include some driftwood and rocks to help break up the line of sight a bit. These fish like to have hiding spots so they feel safe. Common Diseases Saddled bichirs are actually quite hardy fish. They’re not immune to disease, but they’re definitely less prone to it than other freshwater species. The most common illness that these fish experience is ich. This disease is caused by a parasite and will present itself as white spots on the body of your fish. If left untreated, ich can be deadly. However, it’s usually not too difficult to treat if you catch it early. The best way to prevent your fish from getting ich (or any other disease) is to maintain a clean and stable habitat. This will help to keep your fish healthy and reduce the chance of them getting sick. Behavior & Temperament The saddled bichir is a predatory fish, so it’s important to be aware of that before you decide to add one to your tank. They’re not aggressive by nature, but they will eat smaller fish if given the chance. It’s best to keep them with fish that are too large to fit in their mouths. That way, you won’t have to worry about them becoming snacks. In terms of temperament, the saddled bichir is a relatively peaceful fish. It’s not known for being aggressive and will usually leave other fish alone. The only time you might see them become aggressive is if they’re competing for food. Otherwise, they’re relatively calm and easy-going. They’re also interesting to watch because they’re constantly on the move. They’re always exploring their surroundings and looking for something to eat. Tank Mates The saddled bichir is a curious and unique creature. It’s also a popular choice for freshwater aquariums. But before you add one to your tank, it’s important to know a few things about their care. This includes their diet, tank mates, and more. In terms of diet, the saddled bichir is an opportunistic feeder. In the wild, they eat just about anything they can find. This includes smaller fish, crustaceans, insects, and more. While they can be trained to eat pellets and flakes, it’s best to stick to a diet of live and frozen foods. As for tank mates, the saddled bichir can be kept with other peaceful fish. But because of their diet, it’s best to avoid smaller species. Some good saddled bichir tank mates include: Catfish Tetras Barbs Rasboras Rainbows Gouramis Danios Breeding Saddled bichirs are a bit more difficult to breed in captivity than other fish. They’re very sensitive to changes in water quality and temperature. The slightest fluctuation can cause them stress, which can lead to death. To give yourself the best chance of success, start by setting up a separate breeding tank. It should hold at least 55 gallons of water and have a sandy bottom. Saddled bichirs are egg-layers. The female will lay her eggs in a pit that the male has dug. After she lays them, the male will fertilize them and then guard them. Once the eggs have hatched, remove the adults from the tank. The fry will feed on microscopic organisms in the water. You can supplement their diet with baby brine shrimp. As they grow, you can gradually introduce them to larger foods. Conclusion The saddled bichir is a unique and interesting fish that is perfect for the advanced aquarium keeper. They are not for the faint of heart, and require a bit more care than your average fish. However, if you are up for the challenge, they can be a rewarding addition to your aquarium. They are a hardy fish that are known to adapt well to a variety of different environments, and their unique appearance is sure to turn heads. If you are looking for a fish that is a little bit out of the ordinary, the saddled bichir is a great option for you.

The barred bichir is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. It is a member of the Polypteridae family, which contains some of the most unique freshwater fish in the world. The barred bichir is a nocturnal fish that prefers to live in dark, murky waters. In the wild, they are often found in swamps, ponds, and rivers. Although they are not the most popular fish in the aquarium trade, they are becoming more popular as people learn more about them. If you are thinking about getting a barred bichir, there are a few things you need to know about their care. In this article, we will go over everything you need to know about barred bichir care. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The barred bichir (scientific name: Polypterus endlicheri) is a freshwater fish that’s native to Africa. It’s most commonly found in the Congo Basin, although they can also be found in other parts of the continent. Their natural habitat is one that’s quite similar to what you might find in an aquarium; they prefer slow-moving water with plenty of plants and hiding spots. Barred bichirs are nocturnal predators, so they’re most active at night. In the wild, they eat a variety of smaller fish, invertebrates, and even amphibians. Due to their unique appearance and behavior, barred bichirs are a popular choice for many aquarium hobbyists. They’re not the easiest fish to care for, but they can be a great addition to a freshwater tank. Appearance The first thing you’ll notice about this fish is their long snake-like body. They can get quite large (up to two feet in some cases), but are more commonly around a foot in length. They have a very thin build with small scales that have a bit of a sheen to them. The coloration of this fish can be a bit variable, but they are usually some shade of brown with black stripes running vertically down their body. These stripes can be broken up into bars or spots in some cases. The fins on this fish are small and thin. The dorsal fin is located about halfway down the body and is slightly taller than the anal fin. The caudal fin is forked and extends back quite a ways. It’s worth noting that this species has very small eyes. Lifespan The average lifespan for a barred bichir is 10 to 15 years. Of course, this can change based on a number of factors. For instance, if the fish is kept in poor water conditions then its lifespan will be significantly shorter. These fish are also susceptible to a number of diseases which can shorten their lifespan if they’re not treated properly. Generally speaking, though, a barred bichir can live a long and healthy life as long as they’re kept in a good environment. Size The average size of a full-grown Barred Bichir is between 12 and 16 inches, although some have been known to reach lengths of 20 inches. Females are typically smaller than males, but both genders can reach the same maximum size. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for a single barred bichir is 125 gallons. If you want to keep more than one fish, you should add at least another 55 gallons for each additional fish. Barred bichirs are not ideal for beginner aquarists since they require a larger tank and more maintenance than most other freshwater fish. Water Parameters The barred bichir is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. It is found in the rivers and lakes of the Congo Basin. The fish is also known as the Congo bichir, leopard bichir, or zebra bichir. The barred bichir is a member of the Polypteridae family, which contains all of the bichirs and reedfish. The barred bichir is a long, eel-like fish that can grow to be up to two feet in length. It has a brown or gray body with black vertical bars. The fish has a long dorsal fin that extends the length of its body. The barred bichir is a nocturnal predator that feeds on small fish, insects, and crustaceans. The fish is a popular aquarium fish and is relatively easy to care for. The following are a few things to keep in mind when it comes to barred bichir care: Water temperature: 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.8 to 7.6 Water hardness: 4 to 12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the inside of an aquarium for a Barred Bichir there are a few things you’ll need to take into account. The first is the size of your fish. Barred Bichirs can grow to be quite large (up to 2 feet in length in some cases). This means you’ll need to provide them with a habitat that’s big enough to accommodate their size. We recommend a tank that’s at least 75 gallons for a single fish. If you plan on keeping more than one Bichir then you’ll need an even larger tank (100 gallons or more). The second thing you need to consider is the substrate. These fish like to dig and burrow so you’ll need to provide them with a substrate that’s soft and sandy. Gravel can be used, but it’s not ideal since it can damage their delicate fins. Last but not least, you’ll need to provide them with some hiding places. Barred Bichirs are shy fish and they’ll appreciate having some places to retreat to when they feel threatened. Caves, driftwood, and plants are all good options. Just make sure whatever you use is sturdy enough to withstand a bit of digging! Common Diseases These fish are actually quite resilient to disease and sickness. In fact, the main health concern with barred bichirs is actually injuries. These fish have long, sharp fins that can easily become damaged. A common injury is a ripped or torn fin. This can happen if your fish gets stuck in something or if another fish in the tank nips at them. Another common injury is a broken spine. This is usually the result of a fall or being dropped. These fish are not very flexible, so even a small fall can cause serious damage. If you notice any injuries on your fish, it’s important to act quickly. Clean the wound with a sterile solution and then apply a bandage if necessary. If the injury is serious, you may need to take your fish to the vet. As far as diseases go, there aren’t many that these fish are susceptible to. However, they can still get sick like any other animal. The most common illness that these fish experience is ich. This is a very common parasite that can become quite serious if it’s not dealt with. The most obvious sign of this disease is the series of white spots that will begin to cover the body of your fish. There are plenty of other potential diseases that can affect this species as well, but they’re not as common. Another thing to look out for is infection from cuts. The most common cause of this is keeping your fish in a tank with a rough substrate (or aggressive species that want to fight). In general, the best way to prevent these fish from getting sick is to maintain the quality of the water in their tank. A tank with clean and stable water conditions always leads to healthier fish who are more resistant to disease. Behavior & Temperament The barred bichir is a predatory fish, so it’s important to be aware of that before you put one in your tank. It’s not that they’re going to attack you or your other fish, but they will eat smaller fish if they have the opportunity to do so. That being said, they’re not known for being particularly aggressive. They’re actually quite shy and reclusive, so you might not see them much. They prefer to stick to the shadows and stay hidden. Even though they’re not the most social fish, they can be kept in groups as long as there is plenty of space for everyone. They’re not territorial, so they won’t fight with each other. The biggest thing to watch out for with barred bichirs is their eating habits. They’re known for being finicky eaters, so you might have to experiment with different foods to see what they’ll actually eat. Tank Mates Barred bichirs are one of the few species on this list that can be kept with other fish successfully. They’re not overly aggressive and can get along with most species. The only caveat is that their tank mates need to be relatively large. Barred bichirs will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouths. This includes things like baby shrimp and fish fry. Other than that, there are tons of options for compatible tank mates. Some good choices include: Oscar Cichlid Convict Cichlid Jack Dempsey Cichlid Green Terror Cichlid Firemouth Cichlid Black Convict Cichlid Blood Parrot Cichlid Redtail Catfish Plecostomus Breeding The first step to breeding barred bichirs is to set up a breeding tank. This should be a 20-gallon tank with a sandy bottom. The water should be around 78 degrees Fahrenheit with a neutral pH. Then, you need to find a pair of fish. The best way to do this is to buy six juvenile fish and let them grow up together. They will pair off naturally. If you can’t find six, you can try four. Just know that the success rate will be lower. Keep the fish in the breeding tank for a few weeks to let them acclimate. Then, begin to change the water conditions. Slowly lower the temperature to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. This will trigger spawning. When the female is ready to lay eggs, she will do so on the glass or on a plant leaf. The male will then fertilize them. After that, it’s up to you to remove the adults. They will eat the eggs if given the chance. The eggs will hatch in about two weeks. At that point, you can start feeding the fry baby brine shrimp or other live foods. Conclusion Barred Bichir care can be challenging, but it is definitely possible to keep them healthy and happy in your aquarium. They are a unique and interesting fish that will add a lot of variety to your tank. If you are up for the challenge, we say go for it! These fish are definitely worth the effort.

The ornate bichir (Polypterus ornatipinnis) is a beautiful freshwater fish that is native to Africa. They are a popular choice for aquariums because of their unique appearance and easy care. Ornate bichirs grow to be about 12 inches (30 cm) long and can live for 10-15 years with proper care. They are relatively easy to care for and make a great addition to any freshwater aquarium. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about ornate bichir care. You’ll learn about their diet, size, lifespan, and more! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The Ornate Bichir (Polypterus ornatipinnis) is a freshwater fish that is native to the Congo Basin in Africa. It is closely related to the common bichir (Polypterus senegalus) and is often confused with it. The Ornate Bichir grows to a length of about 18 inches (45 cm) and is a brown or greenish color with black spots. It has a long, eel-like body and is a good swimmer. The Ornate Bichir is a predator and will eat small fish, crustaceans, and insects. It is a nocturnal fish and is most active at night. The Ornate Bichir is a popular aquarium fish and is easy to care for. It is important to provide it with a large tank with plenty of hiding places. Appearance The Ornate Bichir is an eel-like freshwater fish that has a unique appearance. They have a long snake-like body that is covered in scales. These scales are large and have a rough texture. The Ornate Bichir is dark brown or black in color with a white or cream-colored belly. They have a long dorsal fin that runs the length of their body. This fin is tall and has a saw-toothed edge. They also have a long anal fin and a forked caudal fin. Their pectoral fins are small and located near their head. They have small eyes and a large mouth that is filled with sharp teeth. Ornate Bichirs can grow to be over a foot in length. They are a nocturnal species of fish that prefer to live in dark, murky waters. Lifespan In the wild, the lifespan of an ornate bichir is around 10 years. But in captivity, with proper care, they can live for 20 years or more! One of the reasons ornate bichirs can live so long is because they have a very slow metabolism. This means they don’t need to eat as much as other fish, which can reduce stress and extend their lifespan. Of course, they still need to eat a nutritious diet and be kept in clean water if they’re going to reach their full potential. Size The maximum size of an Ornate Bichir is about 18 inches, but they are typically only about 12 inches long. These fish can live for 10-15 years with proper care. Tank Tank Size The minimum tank size for an ornate bichir is 30 gallons. If you want to keep more than one fish, you should add at least 10 gallons for each additional fish. Water Parameters The ornate bichir is a freshwater fish that is found in slow moving rivers and floodplains in Africa. They prefer water that is warm and has a lot of vegetation. To keep your ornate bichir healthy, you will need to replicate these water conditions as closely as possible. They are very sensitive to changes in water parameters and even small deviations can result in stress and health problems. Be sure to test the water frequently and do partial water changes as needed to keep nitrate levels low. Ammonia and nitrite are extremely dangerous to fish and even in small amounts can prove fatal to ornate bichirs. Always keep these levels at 0 ppm. Water Temperature: Between 77°F-86°F pH Levels: 6.5-7.5 Water hardness: between 4 and 8 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 3-10 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up an aquarium for an Ornate Bichir there are a few things you’ll need to take into consideration. The first is that these fish get quite large. They can reach up to 2 feet in length in some cases! This means you’ll need to provide them with a tank that’s at least 75 gallons. Another thing to consider is that these fish like to have a lot of hiding spots. This can be in the form of plants, driftwood, or caves. Whatever you choose to use just make sure there’s enough for all of your fish. Ornate Bichirs are also known to be escape artists. They’re known to jump out of tanks that don’t have a lid! For this reason, we recommend getting a tank that has a lid or is tall enough that they can’t jump out. The substrate in their tank can be whatever you want. Gravel is always a good choice, but sand can be used as well. Just avoid anything too sharp or rough. Common Diseases Ornate bichirs are actually quite hardy fish. They’re not immune to disease, but they’re not as susceptible as some other species. The most common disease that these fish experience is ich. This is a parasite that will attach itself to your fish and cause white spots to form on the body. If left untreated, ich can be fatal. However, it’s relatively easy to treat if you catch it early. Another disease that these fish can get is hole-in-the-head disease. This is another parasitic infection that is caused by poor water quality. It will present itself as, you guessed it, holes in the head of your fish. This disease is also curable if you take care of it quickly. The best way to prevent these diseases is to maintain a high quality of water in your tank. A well-filtered and well-aerated tank will go a long way in keeping your fish healthy. Behavior & Temperament The ornate bichir is a predatory fish, which means it will hunt and eat smaller fish and invertebrates. In the wild, their diet consists of small fish, crustaceans, and insects. In captivity, they can be fed live, frozen, or freeze-dried foods. Some aquarists have success feeding them pellets or flakes, but it’s not the preferred method. They may not get all the nutrients they need from these foods. Ornate bichir are nocturnal, so they’re most active at night. During the day, they’ll hide in plants or other decorations. When they’re out and about, they’ll use their sensory organs to “taste” the water for food. These fish are relatively peaceful, but they can be aggressive towards smaller fish. If you’re keeping them with other fish, make sure the tank is big enough and there are plenty of hiding places. Tank Mates Ornate bichirs are big, bold, and beautiful fish. They’re also some of the oldest fish in the world. With a lifespan of up to 15 years, these fish outlive most other freshwater species. In the wild, ornate bichirs occupy a wide range of habitats. They’re found in both fast-moving rivers and stagnant swamps. As a result, they’re adaptable to a variety of water conditions. Ornate bichirs are relatively peaceful fish. They’re not known to be aggressive and will usually leave other fish alone. That said, they are opportunistic feeders. If they see an easy meal, they might go after it. This is something to keep in mind when choosing tank mates. Overall, ornate bichirs are compatible with most other fish. They get along with both peaceful and semi-aggressive species. Some good ornate bichir tank mates include: Congo Tetras Fire Eels Ropefish Rainbowfish Clown Loaches Giant Danio Black Ghost Knifefish Breeding These fish are not easy to breed in captivity. In fact, it’s only been successfully done a handful of times. If you’re up for the challenge, here’s what you need to know. First, you need to sex the fish. Males and females have different patterns on their dorsal fins. The males also have longer pectoral fins. Once you’ve got your pair, it’s time to set up the breeding tank. It should be at least 55 gallons and filled with soft, acidic water. The temperature should be between 77 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Add a few plants to the tank for the fry to hide in. Java fern and Anubias are good choices. You should also add a piece of driftwood or a cave. When everything is ready, slowly acclimate the fish to the new environment. Once they’re comfortable, the female will lay a large batch of eggs (usually around 200). The male will then fertilize them. After that, it’s a waiting game. The eggs will hatch in about two weeks. When they do, remove the adults from the tank. They will eat the fry if given the chance. The fry are tiny and need special care. They need to be fed live foods like baby brine shrimp or daphnia. You can also give them finely-crushed flake food. Conclusion The Ornate Bichir is an amazing fish that is perfect for the intermediate to advanced fish keeper. They are not for everyone, but if you are looking for a challenge then this is the fish for you. They are very sensitive to changes in their environment and need to be in a well-established tank with stable water parameters. They are also very sensitive to medications, so you need to be very careful when treating them for illnesses. Overall, we think the Ornate Bichir is a great fish for the right person. They are beautiful, unique, and a joy to own. If you are up for the challenge, then we say go for it!

The gray bichir is a beautiful and unique freshwater fish that adds a very prehistoric feel to your tank. In fact, they’re one of our favorite freshwater fishes you can get. Period. There are also a few different types you can get that all have different colors and patterns. You have a lot of options! But if you’re interested in getting one of these ancient-looking fish, you’ll need to know how to keep them happy and healthy. That’s where this guide comes in. Below, you’ll learn everything you need to know about gray bichir care and this fish in general. Tank size, diet, tank mates, and more. It’s all here! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The gray bichir (scientific name: Polypterus senegalus) is a type of fish that’s native to Africa. They’re most commonly found in the Niger, Senegal, and Congo river basins. This fish prefers slow-moving waters with a lot of vegetation. This is something that’s common to many types of bichir, as they’re generally bottom-dwellers that like to hide among the plants. The gray bichir is a carnivorous fish that primarily feeds on small invertebrates. In the wild, they’ve been known to eat things like worms, insects, and crustaceans. Due to their unique appearance, gray bichirs have been a popular choice for aquariums for many years. They’re not the easiest fish to care for, but they can be a fun addition to a tank if you’re up for the challenge. Appearance The Gray bichir is an eel-like freshwater fish that can grow to be quite large. They have a long, thin body that tapers off at the end. The majority of their body is a dark gray color with a white or light gray underbelly. You’ll also find dark spots along their body, but these are more common on juveniles. As they age, these spots will start to fade away. One of the most unique things about this fish is their pectoral fins. These fins look more like legs and help the fish move around on land (more on that later). Each of these “legs” has 4-5 “toes” on the end that help them grip surfaces. The Gray bichir also has a long dorsal fin that starts about two-thirds of the way back on their body. This fin runs the entire length of their body and is slightly taller than their anal fin. Their caudal fin is forked and rather short when you compare it to the rest of their body. Lifespan The average lifespan of a gray bichir is around 10 years. However, there have been reports of them living up to 20 years in captivity! As with any other animal, their lifespan will be greatly impacted by the level of care they receive. If they’re in a well-maintained tank with good water quality, they’ll likely live on the higher end of the spectrum. Size The average size of a gray bichir is about 12 inches, but they can grow up to 18 inches in length. These fish are relatively slow growers, so it may take a few years for them to reach their full size. Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for a gray bichir is 30 gallons. If you’re looking for a smaller freshwater fish, this is not the fish for you. Gray bichirs are predators and will often try to eat smaller fish. If you’re looking for a community tank, we recommend avoiding this fish or only keeping them with larger fish that can defend themselves. Water Parameters The gray bichir is a freshwater fish that is native to Africa. They are found in slow-moving rivers and floodplains. In the wild, the water temperature ranges from 68-86 degrees Fahrenheit with a pH of 6.5-7.5. The water hardness is typically between 2-12 dGH. In captivity, it is important to maintain similar water conditions. Bichirs are sensitive to water quality and changes in water parameters. Sudden changes can result in stress and health issues. Bichirs are also sensitive to nitrate levels. Be sure to frequently test the water and perform partial water changes as needed to keep nitrate low. Ammonia and nitrite are extremely dangerous to fish and even in small amounts can prove fatal to bichirs. Always keep these levels at 0 ppm. Water Temperature: 68-86 degrees Fahrenheit pH Levels: 6.5-7.5 Water Hardness: 2-12 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Gray bichirs are a freshwater species that’s native to Africa. In the wild, they can be found in a variety of habitats (including rivers, lakes, and swamps). This means that they’re not too picky when it comes to the inside of their tank. That being said, there are still a few things you should include to make them feel at home. The first is some type of plants. These can be real or fake, but we prefer live plants if possible. They not only help create a more naturalistic environment, but they also provide some hiding places for your fish. Gray bichirs also love to hide in caves and other dark areas. This is why we recommend including some rocks or driftwood in their tank. You can use these to create some hiding spots for your fish. Just make sure that the wood is completely submerged. The substrate in their tank can be either sand or gravel. We prefer sand since it’s softer on their belly, but either one will work. Common Diseases The gray bichir is a rather hardy fish, but that doesn’t mean they can’t get sick. There are a few diseases that you should be on the lookout for if you own one of these fish. The most common disease that affects the gray bichir is ich. This is a parasite that attaches itself to the fish and begins to feed off of them. The most obvious symptom of ich is the presence of white spots on the body of the fish. If you notice this, it’s important to act fast. Ich can be treated relatively easily if it’s caught early. However, if it’s allowed to progress it can be fatal. Another disease that can affect the gray bichir is hole-in-the-head disease. This is another condition that’s caused by poor water quality. It presents itself as, you guessed it, holes in the head of the fish. This disease is also treatable if it’s caught early, but it can be fatal if it’s allowed to progress. As with any other fish, the best way to prevent disease is by maintaining a clean and stable tank. This will create a healthy environment for your fish and make them much less likely to get sick. Behavior & Temperament The gray bichir is a carnivore that likes to stay hidden during the day. It’s a nocturnal creature that is most active at night. You’ll often see it swimming near the bottom of the tank in search of food. This fish is a loner. It’s not a social creature and prefers to live alone. In fact, it can be quite aggressive towards other fish. If you’re keeping more than one gray bichir, it’s best to give them plenty of space to avoid any fighting. The gray bichir is also known to be a bit of an escape artist. It’s known to jump out of aquariums, so it’s important to have a lid on your tank. Tank Mates The gray bichir is a fascinating fish that is often thought of as a “living fossil.” This species is unique and can live in a wide range of conditions. As a result, they have a lot of potential tank mates. The gray bichir is a carnivore that feeds on smaller fish, invertebrates, and tiny land animals that fall into the water. In the wild, they’re known to travel out of the water to hunt on land! In the aquarium, they can be housed with other fish that occupy different areas of the water column. This will help reduce competition for food. Some good tank mates for the gray bichir include: African cichlids Synodontis catfish Plecos Loricariids Tetras Rainbows Danios Breeding These fish are not easy to breed in captivity. They are mouthbrooders, which means the female will carry the eggs in her mouth until they hatch. The female will lay the eggs in a secluded area, often among plants. The male will then fertilize them. Once that’s done, the female will scoop them up in her mouth and carry them around until they hatch. This can take up to six weeks. During that time, the female will not eat. She will live off her body fat. It’s best to remove the male once the eggs have been fertilized. He may become aggressive and try to eat the eggs. Once the fry have hatched, the female will spit them out. They will be fully independent and ready to start eating on their own. You can feed them live food or brine shrimp. Conclusion The gray bichir is an amazing fish that is perfect for the freshwater aquarium. They are peaceful and get along well with other community fish. They are also easy to care for, which makes them a great choice for beginner fishkeepers. The only downside to owning a gray bichir is that they can be expensive. But, we think they are worth the investment and we are sure you will be happy with your decision to add one to your tank!

The Spotted Sunfish is a freshwater fish that is native to the southeastern United States. This fish is a member of the Centrarchidae family, which includes other popular sunfish such as the Bluegill and the Pumpkinseed. The Spotted Sunfish gets its name from the spots that are present on its body and fins. These spots are usually black in color, but can sometimes be dark brown. The body of the Spotted Sunfish is oval-shaped and compressed. It has a small mouth that is located underneath the snout. The Spotted Sunfish is a popular fish for aquariums and ponds. It is a peaceful fish that gets along well with other fish. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview Spotted sunfish (Lepomis punctatus) are a small freshwater fish that are found in a wide variety of habitats throughout the southeastern United States. They prefer slow-moving waters with plenty of vegetation, but they can also be found in fast-moving streams and even ponds. Spotted sunfish are omnivorous, meaning they will eat both plants and animals. In the wild, their diet consists of insects, crustaceans, and small fish. These fish are popular among aquarists because of their bright colors and patterns. They are also relatively easy to care for, making them a good choice for beginner fishkeepers. Appearance The Spotted sunfish is a small but beautiful freshwater fish. As the name suggests, these fish are mostly covered in spots. The spots are black and quite prominent on the upper half of their bodies. The spots tend to be a bit more faded on the lower half and their belly area. The background color of the Spotted sunfish can be a bit difficult to describe. It’s somewhere between yellow, green, and brown. This color can also vary depending on the fish’s environment and diet. The fins on this fish are also spotted (to some degree). The dorsal fin is tall and begins about halfway back on the body. The anal fin is much shorter and starts closer to the fish’s ventral area. Both of these fins have a black margin that really makes the spots pop. The caudal fin is forked and symmetrical. The Spotted sunfish has a rather long and thin body shape. This gives them a lot of speed and agility in the water. Lifespan Spotted sunfish have a typical lifespan of 4 to 6 years. As with most fish, their lifespan will be greatly impacted by the quality of care they receive. If they’re kept in a well-maintained tank with good water conditions then they’re likely to live towards the upper end of this range. Conversely, if they’re kept in poor conditions then their lifespan will be considerably shorter. Size Spotted sunfish generally only grow to be about 4-5 inches long. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for a spotted sunfish is 10 gallons. This is the bare minimum and you will need at least a 20 gallon tank if you want to keep more than one fish. The main reason why you need a larger tank is because of the size of these fish. They can grow up to 12 inches in length and need a lot of space to swim and explore. Water Parameters The spotted sunfish is a freshwater fish that is native to the southeastern United States. They are most commonly found in ponds, lakes, and streams with slow to moderate currents. Spotted sunfish are a hardy fish and can tolerate a wide range of water conditions. However, they prefer water that is clean and well-oxygenated with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. The following are some ideal water parameters for keeping spotted sunfish: Water temperature: 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 7.0 to 8.0 Water hardness: 4 to 10 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the inside of an aquarium for Spotted Sunfish you can be as creative as you want. There aren’t any specific things that this species NEEDS to have, which gives you plenty of options. We recommend some of the standard decorations that you find in a lot of freshwater tanks. There are a ton of great plants you can include (like hornwort or water wisteria). You can even throw in some floating aquarium plants too! Rocks, driftwood, and caves are all suitable as well. It’s important to avoid going overboard with this since these fish like some room to swim. Also, if you’re keeping your Spotted Sunfish in a smaller tank then it’s going to be difficult to include a lot of this stuff anyway. A classic gravel substrate is always a good choice, but you can do with something soft and sandy if needed too (use other species you keep as a guide with this). Common Diseases The spotted sunfish is a hardy fish that isn’t prone to too many illnesses. However, there are a few potential diseases that you should be aware of. The most common disease that these fish experience is ich. This is a parasite that can affect freshwater fish of all types, and it’s especially common in sunfish. The most obvious symptom of ich is the presence of white spots on the body of your fish. If you notice this, it’s important to act fast. Ich can spread quickly and it can be fatal if left untreated. The best way to prevent ich (and other diseases) is to maintain clean and stable water conditions in your tank. This will help to keep your fish healthy and reduce the chance of them getting sick. Behavior & Temperament Spotted sunfish are peaceful fish that prefer to stick to themselves. They are not known to be aggressive, and they will usually only interact with other fish if they are feeding. These fish are mainly bottom-dwellers, but they will occasionally swim up to the surface to grab a quick gulp of air. They are not strong swimmers, so they will usually just drift back down to the bottom after taking a breath. Spotted sunfish are not known to be very active, so don’t expect to see them swimming around a lot. They will usually just stay in one spot unless they are looking for food. When they are looking for food, they will use their long fins to help them glide through the water and find something to eat. Tank Mates Spotted sunfish are generally compatible with other fish that occupy the same water column. In other words, fish that stay near the top of the tank are good choices. These fish are also pretty mellow, so you don’t need to worry about them being too aggressive. With that in mind, here are some compatible tank mates for spotted sunfish: Neon Tetras Cardinal Tetras Ghost Shrimp Guppies Platy Fish Mollies Swordtails Breeding The spotted sunfish is a relatively easy fish to breed. They are livebearers, so the female will give birth to fry (baby fish). You don’t need to do anything special to trigger spawning. The fish will breed on their own when they’re ready. You will, however, need to provide them with the right environment. Spotted sunfish prefer to live in ponds and other slow-moving bodies of water. They like to hide in aquatic plants, so make sure to include plenty of vegetation in their tank. The water temperature should be between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5. When ready, the female will give birth to anywhere from 10 to 100 fry at a time. The fry are very small, so you’ll need to take care when feeding them. Baby brine shrimp and other live foods are the best option. Conclusion The Spotted Sunfish is a great fish for beginner aquarists. They’re relatively easy to care for and are very peaceful, making them a great addition to community tanks. They’re also very pretty fish, with their bright colors and distinctive spots. If you’re looking for a fish that’s easy to care for and will add some beauty to your tank, the Spotted Sunfish is a great choice!

The Northern sunfish is a beautiful and unique freshwater fish that is perfect for any beginner aquarium. This fish is very peaceful and can be kept with a wide variety of tank mates. They are also very easy to care for and are very tolerant of a wide range of water conditions. The Northern sunfish is a perfect fish for any beginner aquarist. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The Northern sunfish (Lepomis gibbosus) is a freshwater fish that is native to parts of North America. It is most commonly found in the Great Lakes region but can also be found in smaller ponds and lakes throughout the United States and Canada. This fish gets its name from the fact that it is often found basking in the sun near the surface of the water. It is a relatively small fish, only growing to be about 10 inches in length. The Northern sunfish is a popular choice for aquarists because it is a hardy fish that is easy to care for. It is also a peaceful fish that can be kept with a variety of other freshwater fish. Appearance The Northern sunfish is a small and stocky freshwater fish. They have a very compressed body that is deep and short. This gives them a very round appearance when you look at them from the top. Their dorsal and anal fins are both small and rounded. They have a very small caudal fin that is also rounded. Their pelvic and pectoral fins are also small. The color of the Northern sunfish can vary quite a bit. They can be brown, green, yellow, or some combination of these colors. They usually have some darker spots on their body as well. The underside of the Northern sunfish is usually lighter in color than the rest of their body. Lifespan The average lifespan of a Northern sunfish is about 4 years. However, there are a number of factors that can impact their lifespan. For example, if they’re kept in captivity then their lifespan will be shorter than if they were in the wild. This is because they’re not used to the stressors of captivity. The level of care they receive also matters. If they’re kept in poor conditions then their lifespan will be shorter than if they were in optimal conditions. Size Northern sunfish can grow to be about 12 inches long, but are more commonly around 8 inches. Females are typically larger than males. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for a single sunfish is 30 gallons. If you want to keep more than one fish, you’ll need to add at least 10 gallons for each additional fish. While sunfish can technically survive in smaller tanks, they will be much happier and healthier in a larger tank where they have plenty of space to swim around. Water Parameters Northern sunfish are a type of freshwater fish that is native to North America. They are found in lakes, ponds, and streams with slow-moving water. The ideal water temperature for northern sunfish is between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The pH level should be between 6.5 and 7.5, and the water hardness should be between 4 and 10 dGH. It is important to maintain consistent water parameters for northern sunfish. They are sensitive to changes in their environment and can become stressed easily. sudden changes in temperature, pH, or hardness can cause problems for northern sunfish, so it is important to test the water regularly and make gradual changes if necessary. Water Temperature: 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit pH Levels: 6.5-7.5 Water Hardness: 4-10 dGH Alkalinity Levels: Not required What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to the interior of their tank, these fish are pretty flexible. They don’t have any strict requirements and will do well in a variety of setups. One thing we recommend is a sandy substrate. This will be more comfortable for them and make it easier for them to find food. You can also include some plants if you want. These fish aren’t known to eat plants, but they might nibble on them a bit. Hardy plants like Hornwort or Java Fern are a good choice. Rocks, driftwood, and caves are all good additions to their habitat as well. These fish like to have places to hide and feel safe, so giving them a few options is a good idea. Just avoid putting too much in their tank. These fish need some room to swim and don’t do well in cramped spaces. Common Diseases The northern sunfish is a hardy fish that doesn’t usually fall ill. However, there are still some diseases that you need to be aware of. The most common disease that affects this species is ich. This is a parasite that will attach itself to your fish and cause white spots to form on their skin. If left untreated, ich can be fatal. However, it’s relatively easy to treat if you catch it early. The most important thing is to maintain good water quality in your tank. Another disease to look out for is hole-in-the-head disease. This is caused by poor water quality and the presence of activated carbon in the tank. It will present itself as pits or holes in the head of your fish. While it’s not usually fatal, it can be quite difficult to treat. The best way to prevent these diseases is to maintain a clean and stable tank. This will keep your fish healthy and reduce the chance of them getting sick. Behavior & Temperament The northern sunfish is a relatively peaceful fish that doesn’t bother other tank mates. They’re also not known to be territorial, so you shouldn’t have any issues with them fighting with each other. These fish are mostly bottom-dwellers, but they will occasionally swim up to the surface to feed. They’re not fussy eaters and will accept most types of food, including pellets, flakes, and live/frozen foods. One thing to keep in mind is that northern sunfish are escape artists. They’re known to jump out of tanks, so be sure to keep a lid on your tank! Tank Mates Northern sunfish are a great option for community tanks. These fish are relatively peaceful and get along well with other species. That said, there are a few things to consider when choosing tank mates for a northern sunfish. First, these fish are on the larger side. They can reach up to 12 inches in length, so you’ll need to choose tank mates that are large enough to not be seen as food. Secondly, northern sunfish are known to be a bit nippy. They’re not aggressive, but they may nibble on the fins of other fish. This is usually only a problem with slow-moving fish or those with long fins. As a result, you’ll want to avoid fish like bettas and angels. Finally, northern sunfish prefer cooler water. They’re native to lakes and streams in North America, so they’re accustomed to water temperatures in the 60-70 degree Fahrenheit range. With all of that in mind, here are some compatible tank mates for northern sunfish: Largemouth Bass Smallmouth Bass Crappie Yellow Perch Bluegill Pumpkinseed Green Sunfish Rock Bass Breeding The northern sunfish is a fairly easy fish to breed. They are livebearers, so the fry will develop inside the female and be born alive. To start the breeding process, you will need to have a male and a female sunfish. The easiest way to tell them apart is by their size. The males are typically smaller than the females. Once you have your male and female, you will need to set up a breeding tank. The tank should be at least 20 gallons. It should also have a tight-fitting lid to prevent the sunfish from jumping out. Place some plants in the tank for the sunfish to hide in. Java moss is a good option. You will also need a sponge filter. Fill the breeding tank with water that is the same temperature as the water the sunfish are currently living in. Once the breeding tank is set up, you can add the sunfish. The female will usually start to produce fry within a week. The fry will be born alive and be able to swim and feed on their own. You can feed them baby brine shrimp or crushed flake food. As the fry grow, you will need to move them to a larger tank. They can be moved to the main tank once they are big enough to not be eaten by the other fish. Conclusion The Northern Sunfish is a great choice for anyone looking for a hardy and easy to care for fish. They are a great addition to any community tank and will do well with a variety of different tank mates. They are also a great choice for beginner fish keepers as they are very easy to care for and are very tolerant of a wide range of water conditions. Overall, we think the Northern Sunfish is a great choice for anyone looking for a fun and easy to care for fish!

The Redspotted sunfish is a beautiful freshwater fish that is native to the southern United States. This fish is perfect for beginners because they are very hardy and can tolerate a wide range of water conditions. They are also very easy to care for and are very peaceful, making them a great addition to any community tank. If you are looking for a beautiful and easy to care for fish, then the Redspotted sunfish is a great choice! Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The Redspotted Sunfish (Lepomis miniatus) is a freshwater fish that is found in the southeastern United States. They prefer slow-moving waters with a lot of vegetation, and they are often found in swamps, marshes, and ponds. The Redspotted Sunfish is a small fish, and they only grow to be about four inches in length. They are dark green on their back and sides, with a yellow belly and red spots on their fins. The Redspotted Sunfish is a popular choice for aquariums because of their bright coloration and their peaceful nature. They are compatible with a wide variety of other fish, and they are easy to care for. Appearance The Redspotted sunfish is a small freshwater fish that is easily recognizable thanks to its bright coloration. These fish are a deep blue on their back and sides which fades into a white or pale yellow on their belly. As you can probably guess from their name, they have large spots on their sides (usually 2-5). These spots are a deep red color and they’re quite large compared to the size of the fish. In addition to these spots, you’ll also find small blue dots on their fins. The fins on a Redspotted sunfish are relatively average for a freshwater fish. They have a dorsal fin that starts about halfway back on their body and an anal fin that’s a bit shorter. Their caudal fin is forked and their pectoral fins are relatively large. One thing that sets this fish apart from other sunfish is the shape of their mouths. Redspotted sunfish have a very downward-facing mouth that helps them pick food off the bottom of their environment. Lifespan The lifespan of a redspotted sunfish in the wild is typically 4-5 years. However, in captivity, they can live much longer. Some redspotted sunfish in aquariums have been known to live for 10 years or more! The secret to a long life for your redspotted sunfish is to provide them with good water quality and a healthy diet. If you do that, they’ll likely stick around for a long time. Size The redspotted sunfish only gets to be about 4 inches in length when fully grown. This means that they don’t need a ton of space in your aquarium, which is great news for those who have smaller tanks! Tank Tank Size The recommended minimum tank size for a redspotted sunfish is 30 gallons. If you want to keep more than one fish, you’ll need to increase the size of the tank accordingly. For every extra fish you add, you should add 2-4 gallons to the tank size. Water Parameters As with any fish, the key to keeping redspotted sunfish healthy is to provide them with water that closely resembles their natural habitat. Redspotted sunfish are found in streams, rivers, and lakes throughout the southeastern United States. The water in these areas is typically clear and has a moderate flow. While they’re tolerant of a wide range of water conditions, they prefer slightly alkaline water with a pH of 7.0 to 8.0. The water should also be well-oxygenated and have a temperature of 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Water Temperature: 68°F to 77°F pH Levels: 7.0 to 8.0 Water Hardness: 4 to 20 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 6-14 dKH What To Put In Their Tank When it comes to setting up the inside of their tank, there are a few things you’ll want to take into consideration. For starters, Redspotted sunfish love to dig and root around the substrate. This means you’ll want to use something soft like sand. Anything hard or sharp can lead to cuts on your fish (they don’t have a lot of self-control). You’ll also want to include some plants in their habitat. These fish are known to nibble on vegetation so you’ll want something that can bounce back (Hornwort, Water Wisteria, or Java Moss are all great choices). Don’t feel obligated to go with a heavily planted tank for this species though. Something that you should definitely include in a tank with a Redspotted sunfish is a decent piece of driftwood. These fish love to spend time hiding underneath logs and wood (especially during the day). Not only that, but wood is a great surface for algae to grow on which will give them something to snack on as well. Don’t go overboard when adding wood to their tank. One or two solid pieces if you have a 100-gallon tank should be fine. If you’re keeping them in something significantly larger feel free to add more though! Common Diseases Redspotted sunfish are a pretty hearty species. They’re not especially prone to disease, and most of the time they can fight off infections on their own. However, there are still a few things you need to watch out for. The most common disease you’ll see in these fish is ich. This parasitic infection will present itself as white spots on the body and gills of your fish. It can be quite serious if left untreated, but it’s also fairly easy to cure. The other disease you need to be aware of is fungal infections. These are most common in fish that have open wounds, but they can also affect healthy fish if the conditions are right. Fungal infections will usually look like white cottony growths on the skin of your fish. If you see something like this, you need to act fast. The best way to prevent these diseases is to maintain a clean and stable tank. Redspotted sunfish are pretty resilient, but they’re not immune to poor water conditions. By keeping the tank clean and the water quality high, you’ll significantly reduce the chance of your fish getting sick. Behavior & Temperament The redspotted sunfish is a peaceful fish that does well in community tanks. They are active and love to swim, but they are not aggressive towards other fish. These fish are mostly bottom-dwellers, but they will swim in all areas of the tank. They are scavengers and will eat anything they can find, including algae, worms, and small insects. Redspotted sunfish are curious fish and will often approach humans when they are near the tank. They are not afraid of people and will even eat from your hand if you are patient enough! These fish are not aggressive and do not need a lot of space. They are a good choice for beginner aquarists. Tank Mates Redspotted sunfish are peaceful, and therefore, get along with most species. However, because they’re small, you need to be careful about what you put them with. Larger and more aggressive fish will see them as a tasty treat. As a result, it’s best to add tank mates that are too large to fit in their mouth. In terms of water conditions, these fish come from warm and murky waters. Therefore, they can handle a wide range of water parameters. Here are some compatible tank mates for redspotted sunfish: Other sunfish species Catfish Minnows Shad Bass Crappie Breeding The easiest way to breed redspotted sunfish is to purchase a group of young fish and allow them to reach maturity. Once the fish have reached maturity, they will spawn on their own. The best time to breed redspotted sunfish is in the spring when the water temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. When the water temperatures are right, the female fish will lay their eggs in areas with plenty of vegetation. The male fish will then fertilize the eggs. Once the eggs are fertilized, the male fish will stay close by to protect them. The eggs will hatch in 7-10 days. After the eggs have hatched, the fry will be able to feed on their own. You can supplement their diet with brine shrimp or other tiny live foods. As the fry grow, you can begin to introduce them to flake food. Once they are large enough, they can be moved to a larger tank. Conclusion The Redspotted Sunfish is a great choice for anyone looking for a beautiful and easy to care for fish. They’re perfect for beginners and experienced fishkeepers alike. We hope you’ve enjoyed learning about this fish and that you’ll consider adding them to your tank. They’re sure to brighten up your day and bring you hours of enjoyment!

The redear sunfish (Lepomis microlophus) is a freshwater fish native to the southeastern United States. It is a member of the sunfish family (Centrarchidae) and is closely related to the bluegill (Lepomis macrochirus). The redear sunfish is also known as the shellcracker, due to its propensity for feeding on snails. The redear sunfish is a popular game fish and is often considered a nuisance by anglers targeting other species. It is also a popular aquarium fish. The redear sunfish is a deep-bodied fish with a laterally compressed body. It has a small mouth located under the snout. The body is olive-green to brown in color, with a yellowish or orange-red breast and belly. There are dark vertical bars on the sides of the body. The fins are dark and the tail is forked. The redear sunfish grows to a maximum length of 30 cm (12 in) and a maximum weight of 1.3 kg (2.9 lb). The redear sunfish is found in freshwater lakes, ponds, and streams in the southeastern United States. It is most common in the Mississippi River basin. The redear sunfish is a omnivorous fish. Its diet consists of aquatic insects, crustaceans, mollusks, and small fish. The redear sunfish is a popular game fish. It is often considered a nuisance by anglers targeting other species. It is also a popular aquarium fish. The redear sunfish is a hardy fish that can be easily kept in an aquarium. It does best in a tank with plenty of hiding places and a sandy bottom. The aquarium should be at least 30 gallons in size. The redear sunfish is a peaceful fish that gets along with other peaceful fish. It is not aggressive towards other fish and can even be kept with smaller fish. The redear sunfish is a good algae eater and will help to keep the aquarium clean. The redear sunfish is easy to breed in an aquarium. The female lays her eggs in a nest that the male has built. The male guards the eggs until they hatch. The fry are free-swimming after about a week. Table of contents Species overview Appearance Lifespan Size Tank Size Water parameters What To Put In Their Tank Common diseases Behavior & Temperament Tank Mates Breeding Conclusion Species overview The redear sunfish (Lepomis microlophus) is a freshwater fish that’s native to the southeastern United States. It’s most commonly found in the Mississippi river basin but can also be found in parts of Louisiana, Arkansas, and Texas. This fish gets its name from the red or orange hue around its gills. The body itself is usually greenish-brown in color with darker spots dotting its sides. Redear sunfish are most commonly found in ponds and lakes with a sandy or muddy bottom. They prefer waters that are fairly clear and free of vegetation. Although they are not the most popular fish in the aquarium scene, redear sunfish make for interesting and hardy additions to most freshwater tanks. Appearance The first thing you’ll notice about this species is their name sake, the red “ear” on their gills. This is a small, fleshy piece of tissue that’s used to help attract mates. The coloration on this piece will be a bright red or orange. The second thing you’ll notice is their beautiful coloration. The body of the Redear sunfish is olive green on the top half and transitions to a yellowish color on the bottom. There are large, dark spots all over their body (usually 2-3 per side). The fins are where this fish really shines though. The dorsal fin is tall and pointed with a black edge that really makes it stand out. Their caudal fin is forked and also has a black edge. The anal fin is rather small in comparison to the other fins. It has a white margin and a black stripe that runs down the center. The pectoral fins are also quite small. Lifespan The average lifespan of redear sunfish is about 4 years. However, these fish can live much longer in captivity. One study showed that redear sunfish in captivity had a median lifespan of 9.4 years. This is nearly double the lifespan of wild redear sunfish! It’s important to note that the study only looked at a small sample size (30 fish). But it’s still a pretty good indicator that captive redear sunfish can have a much longer lifespan than their wild counterparts. Size The average Redear sunfish size is about 4-7 inches. However, they can grow to be up to 12 inches in length! These fish typically don’t weigh more than a pound. Tank Tank Size The recommended tank size for redear sunfish is 30 gallons. If you’re looking for a freshwater fish that can fit in an average-sized tank, this is not the fish for you. If you want to keep two flowerhorn fish in the same tank you’ll want to add at least another 70 gallons to that minimum number if you want them to thrive. Another reason why you need to provide enough space is for the sake of enrichment and comfort. These fish like to roam and will often run gentle but steady laps around your tank. Giving them a little bit of extra space can go a long way in making sure they can comfortably turn around in the tank. Water Parameters The Redear sunfish is a freshwater fish that is a part of the Centrarchidae family. This family also includes the bluegill and pumpkinseed. The Redear sunfish is also sometimes referred to as the shellcracker due to its love of snails. The Redear sunfish is a popular choice for many aquarists because they are relatively easy to care for and they are not too demanding when it comes to water parameters. However, there are still some water parameters that you need to keep in mind in order to keep your Redear sunfish healthy and happy. Here are a few things to keep in mind: Water temperature: 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit pH levels: 6.5 to 7.5 Water hardness: 4 to 10 dGH Alkalinity Levels: 4-8 dKH What To Put In Their Tank Redear sunfish are a little bit different from most other fish when it comes to their habitat. They prefer to have a lot of open space to swim around in and aren’t too fond of being cramped. This means that you’ll want to avoid putting too many decorations in their tank. A few rocks or pieces of driftwood are fine, but don’t go overboard. These fish also like to dig so you might want to avoid having a gravel substrate. Something like sand or a soft clay would be a better choice. You can also get away with no substrate at all if you’d like! Plants are a bit of a touchy subject with Redear sunfish. They will eat just about any plant you put in their tank, so we recommend avoiding them altogether. If you really want to include plants then we suggest going with something that’s too big for them to eat (like Java Fern). Common Diseases Redear sunfish are a hardy species that doesn’t often get sick. However, like all fish, they can fall ill if they’re not kept in the right conditions or if they’re exposed to disease. The most common disease that affects redear sunfish is ich. This is a parasite that will attach itself to your fish and cause white spots to form on their body. If left untreated, it can be fatal. Other common diseases include bacterial infections, fungal infections, and parasites. These are all relatively easy to treat if you catch them early, but they can quickly become serious if left unchecked. As always, the best way to prevent your fish from getting sick is to maintain a clean and stable environment. Redear sunfish are relatively hardy, but they still need clean water to stay healthy. Behavior & Temperament The Redear sunfish is a peaceful fish that gets along with most other fish species. They are not an aggressive fish, but they can be territorial if they feel like their space is being invaded. These fish are mostly bottom-dwellers, but they will occasionally swim to the surface of the water to feed. When they are feeding, they use their long, slender mouth to vacuum up small insects and larvae. Redear sunfish are relatively calm fish. They don’t tend to swim around a lot, but they are always on the lookout for food. If you have other fish in your tank, they may chase them away from their food source. Tank Mates When it comes to finding tank mates for redear sunfish, there are a few things you need to take into consideration. First, these fish are quite large. They can grow to be up to 12 inches long! As a result, you need to make sure any potential tank mates are sufficiently sized. Secondly, redear sunfish are known to be a bit on the aggressive side. They’re not the most territorial fish, but they can hold their own in a fight. You’ll need to be careful when choosing tank mates that are similar in size. If they’re not, the redear sunfish might see them as potential prey. Here are a few compatible tank mates that tend to work well: Largemouth Bass Bluegill Black Crappie Channel Catfish Green Sunfish Pumpkinseed Sunfish Yellow Perch Breeding The Redear sunfish is a beautiful freshwater fish that’s native to the southeastern United States. It’s a popular choice for aquariums because of its vibrant colors and easy-going personality. Redear sunfish are also relatively easy to breed in captivity. If you’re interested in breeding these fish, there are a few things you need to know. To start, you’ll need a breeding tank. It should be at least 20 gallons in size. Then, set the temperature to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The water should be on the alkaline side with a pH of 7.5. As for decor, use live plants and some driftwood for hiding places. Redear sunfish like to lay their eggs in plants, so the more the better. When everything is set up, it’s time to add the fish. You’ll need one male for every three females. The males are the larger of the two sexes and have brighter colors. Once the fish are in the tank, feed them a diet of live foods. This will help to bring them into breeding condition. When the fish are ready to spawn, you’ll see the female lay her eggs in the plants. The male will then fertilize them. After that, he’ll stay close by to protect the eggs. It takes about a week for the eggs to hatch. Whe...